CFEF257CS4 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did some reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first

The replacement of this part is simple enough, out with the old, in with the new. At issue here is the way the controller fails. The heating element goes to the highest temperature. The original controller on this Kenmore oven failed after about two years and the first replacement that I got from you lasted about a year and a half. The defective controllers seem to be working properly once the controller has been turned off and then restarted, but the frequency of failure increases with time until you hardly dare to step away from the oven. This controller should open on failyor, not close.

George Ritz

Pulled out stove, took side panel off on switch side of oven, unplugged old switch, pulled the old switch out the front of the oven, put in new switch and plugged it in. Then put oven back together and pushed it back into space. (Make sure to turn oven off at breaker box before you make repair) you could easily get shocked if you don’t.

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power

1 Turned off the oven breaker.

2. Removed the oven racks.

3. With a Phillips screwdriver, removed the mounting screws holding the temperature sensor and unplugged it.

4. New sensor plug did not match 20 year old connector. Had to cut and solder splice the connectors.

5. Installed the new sensor and now oven holds temperature steady.

Easy order, quick delivery and easy installation, happy wife.

bought drip bowl from big box store and the 8 inch did not fit . yours fit perfect will use you for future diy jobs thank you

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

I just pulled the old ones out of the sockets, cleaned underneath, and replaced with new ones. No-brainer.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

2 screws disconnected old one and pulled out the new one in put in opposite way. The representative was so helpful, part came fast. thank you

Googled the problem and found Oven Temperature Sensor and Main Terminal Block to be the most likely problems. Turned out to be neither. No parts were needed. Oven has a thermal overload switch on the rear upper left. Thermal overload needed re-set. To do so you have to remove the oven, remove the back and press the red button on thermal overload. Biggest challenge was figuring out how to remove the oven. Even with the installation manual it was not easy to fgure out. The instructions are misleading. You need a special tool. I used two hacksaw blades as a substitute, and slid them in to release the clips. Once you figure out how to get the oven out the rest is simple.

I was required to remove the control panel to access the plug as it had been broken and the switch had been shoved into the unit . It would have been extremely simple if the plug had remained on the outside surface
My son can now clean his dirty oven

We removed the backplate from our range unhooked the element Lug connection .Then we unscrewed the 2 screws in the oven holding the old element removing it screwing the new element into the oven wall. We then hooked the rear connections to the lugs and replaced the back plate.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.