FFGF3012TWC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

The Appliance light was installed in a wood burning oven used by a commercial bakery. The entirely masonry oven is used to cook a specialty product with origins in Brazil.
We first drilled a 11-3/4 hole from the inside of the oven starting at the fire brick that passed through the concrete block outer shell of the oven to accommodate the insulated wiring to the on/off switch outside the oven. Then we commissioned a special steel cowling to enclose the the back and sides of the lamp so that the lamp faced down, instead of out and the back of the fixture was protected. The back of the lamp was attached to the insulated switch wires, then the custom lamp housing with filled with fire proof insulation. The entire lamp housing was then attached to the upper face of the masonry wall with 1/4" x 4" masonry bolt head screws. This type of installation was required because the oven overall size of 6' tall x 4' wide X 4' ID dimensions required a heat resistant light to illuminate 15 shelves of product being produced.
The oven lamp purchased works perfectly for the new oven. By the way, the oven does not have a brand, as it was created as a one of a kind, the brand of the oven lamp was taken from a Kenmore Gas Range.

Followed your video and it was not hard at all

Replaced uper orifice n adjusted oven as instructed.

I removed the screws holding the door together,removed the broken panel and replaced it with the new glass
The part fit correctly and the re-assembly was easy.

My daughter did the installation and it was quick. She had no problem, and it's working great. She love it. She just use a philp screwdriver to take off the bolt then unplug the control adaptor. From the back then plug the new one in and that's it. Easy as 123

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.

I used the tutorial as a guide, and went ahead with the repair. Because of the older model I was working on there were many more screws to remove, not a problem the repair was simple.

Removed the metal cover on the back of the range by unscrewing the square-drive screws around the perimeter, left the center screw until the end to make it easier to hold for removal.

The control unit was held in with 4 Philips head screws, and connected by a single wire-to-board connector. Unplugged the connector and removed the screws and the control unit came right out.

The replacement unit doesn't come with a face plate, so I used a razor blade to carefully remove it from my old unit. The adhesive that held it on was still sticky so I was able to easily attach it to the new unit.

Then I just put everything back together in reverse order. One of the easiest appliance prepares I've done.

Watched a half dozen You Tube Videos before I saw the Exact one-Submitted by a Woman-Super Easy-Had the Exact Part from this site!

YouTube video I used was for a newer version of the same model stove. Door did not have latches to remove it. It was fairly easy getting to the old igniter but a bit of a struggle getting to unplug it, as the connector was behind a small metal shield in the bottom left corner of the oven. Because I couldn’t remove the oven door, it made it more difficult to undo the screw holding it in. I finally did, and from that point it went smoothly. I was worried that I was going to access it from the back, but I didn’t need to. I installed the new one, turned gas back on, moved the stove back to position, and turned on the oven. Very happy to have succeeded, adding a few more years to the stove and saving money for the installation of the igniter.

moved the stove forward and removed old cord by uncruing two small screw and on ploged the all and replaced with the new one.

Took out old screws and replaced with new

The electric was the next step it worked.

replaced it

I saw a chart of the oven door at site after I finally got the model number. I actually thought I had ordered the wrong part, third door in was last pane I thought, but actually this is inner most oven door, glass panel four. I had to find a correct screw diver which took awhile. I thought I didn't have the strength to turn the necessary screws, but easily could with correct screw driver. I followed other stories about removing handle, spring loaded door, so be careful it pops apart. A bit tricky to put back together, cause you have to hold door together against spring when you put cap on and door handle. Remove handle, remove top plastic cap. Will see screws holding glass and aluminum shield in place. Remove shield, need to remove screws holding glass two panes with holder. Shield pulls back and this glass just drops in. Reassemble door.