FEF364BXAWA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Removed rear panal, removed screws from of switch. Unplued wires and installed new switch and put back together. Very easy.

took out the old one, screwed in the new one. very easy.

I watched the video of the repair. It was very easy; removed 2 screws; disconnected 2 push-on tabs; removed the element; and then reversed the operation. Be sure to turn off the circuit breaker that powers the oven before you start the repair. Turn it back on when finished and test the oven.

Assembled liner, panel and drawer. Installed the drawer guides and slid complete assembly in place.

Unscrewed screws in back of oven holding element. Slipped old element off of wire. No need to cut wires has the kind of ends (spade ends I think they are called) that just is pushed on to element. Attached new element. slid wires back into wall of wire rescrewed to oven wall. Very easy just be sure wires don't get pulled back into back wall of oven. Don't know what you would do then.

removed screws,unplugged terminal leads,installed new one,back in business.

After settling that it was the Surface Element Switch, ordering and securing the switch, the first step was to disconnect the power to the Oven/Range. Next pull out the Range and remove the back and disconnect the switch from the top of the Range. Using the new switch I removed the wire connectors from the old switch and reconnected them to the new switch in the same spot that they came from. After connections were secure I reattached the switch to the back of the Range and reattached the back of the Range. When everything was back in place the power source was reconnected and that was it.

Shut off power - throw breaker. Oven access easier with door removed - requires removal of two Phillips head screws. Remove two screws holding element in place using 1/4" socket. Pull element & wires out and pull slide in connectors out (had to hold the wire end with needle nose pliers}. Installed element by reversing the removal procedures. Also good time to clean oven.

It took me more time to find the right tool then to remove and replace the element. If I can do it anybody can do it. Removed two (2) screws with a nutdriver. Detached the element replaced with new element and replaced screws. Easy job!

It's a simple project. Remove old element and replace it with new one. Access is easy. Only one tool needed. What impressed me was how fast the part got here, like the next day after I ordered it.

I was forced to call in a pro repairman. Will cost me at least $150 for part and repairman. I could have done job if instructions on how to rewire had been included.

Drank a beer, grabbed a screwdriver & tried to remove the two screws that held the element in place. The screws were old and when I turned them, they stripped instantly. This required another beer. Eventually I used pliers to grip the sides of the screws to remove and reinsrt them. When I finished the oven worked great, so I celebrated with another beer.

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

Remove drawer. Insert new slide. Install drawer.

after pulling away from wall and unplugging remove 5 screws in upper back panel lift off being careful of sharp edges if part of lens is still in hole push it out towards the front insert lens from front of unit slide light assy over pin on back of lens replace back panel plug in range push back against wall check for level you're done