KTM487187C Frigidaire Range - Instructions

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

The repair was really easy. All I did was unplug the surface element and plug in the new one.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Unplug range, remove top back panel. Remove knob. Replacement part is different, but if you look closely, each metal tab has a number stamped on the plastic housing directly beneth it. Remove old switch (2 screws)and remove and replace wires one at a time. You will need to cut the "one size fits all" metal shaft that the knob attaches to. We had to remove most of it, leaving only 2 "segments". File rough edges and apply vaseline so that the plastic sleeve will slip right on. We used the shorter sleeve (only 2 that are supplied will fit the knob). Replace unit and screw in. Replace knob.

Pulled out the range, unplugged it and removed the upper back panel. The switches were held in place with two screws. Removed the old switches, detached the wires and plugged them into the new switches. Mounted the new switches, replaced the back panel, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into position. Appliance repair company wanted $370. I did it in 45 min. for less than $100.

I couldn't explain how to do the job any better than your instructional video does. As long as you follow the video instructions you should have no problems.

Simple Just plugged it in !

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

Just took the old one out & put the new one in . Just a few screws to remove & put them back when replacing to new broil element , and were back up and cooking :)

I unplugged the damaged element and plugged in the new one. It took less trhan 30 seconds and the unit worked just fine.

Just followed the instructions

Unpluged old one pluged new one in. So good to have a burner that all the coils heat up.

older range required no tools to repair, pulled old gasket out of notches at bottom of door, popped clips out of pre-drilled holes, folded new gasket ends {2 inches} and pushed into door, pushed clips into place.

I looked up the model number of the Tappan oven on the net, found the part on the PartSelect site, ordered it and it arrived within a few days. The disassembly should have required nothing more than a Phillips head screw driver, unfortunately one of the screws was completely frozen and I managed to strip the Phillips head socket.

The screw was in a very awkward position so I first tried using grip pliers on the edge of the screw - this failed, I then tried grinding a flat spot on either side of the screw circumference and using the flats for gripping - it worked but the screw wouldn't move. Finally, I took a hacksaw blade and cut a slot in the head of the screw. I widened the slot using miniature files and finally made the slot wide enough for a large slot blade screwdriver - this worked. After removing that one screw and maneuvering the broken hinge out of the access hole on the stove front (the break in the hinge was such that this took awhile) the rest of the repair went very quickly.

The oven door was such that I could not see all of the hinge and when the part arrived from PartSelect I thought it was the wrong part. I called your parts return number to ask some questions. The lady who took my call was extremely helpful and we first discussed the part ID, then she showed me how to find a picture of the actual part on your site. After looking at the picture and the diagram I suddenly realized the part was correct - it was just that I thought it was supposed to be installed in a different manner. I'm sorry I didn't remember to get her name because she certainly should be commended for he patience and her assistance. Thanks Again.