TEP340VQ0 Estate Range - Instructions

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

removed the screws that were on back side of oven securing panel that covered element terminals disconnected wiring to upper element then went in side oven area removing 4 upper mount screws that were holding upper element in place then removed old element and reinstalled new in same order was removed..

We took the door off and took it and the side panels to the local dealer and he put them on for us - for anyone needing to replace the side panels on the over, be aware they slide under the glass front -not over it like we tried to do. We thought, though, that we were going to have a buy a new stove but for a little over $70. 00 We got the parts, had them installed and saved over $800 on a new stove - well worth the effort.

I did the repair by myself. I used masking tape to hold the side trim in place. It was pretty easy and it looks great.

I remove bottom trim which is held on by 3 screws and try to install new bottom trim, did not work well. I then remove yop handle assem. Then the door glass which you need to clean after. Then install the new bottom trim then insert the glass into the new bottom strip using masking tape to hold the glass and side strips in place prior to installing the the top handle piece which is held on by two screws. Not a hard job to do.

Only difficult because one heating element connector broken off. Before receiving correct part, tried to install generic element, which had leads about 2 inches too long, so trying to force into place bent electrical connectors that go from oven to heating element. Tried to bend one back and it broke off, so did not bend 2nd one back. Received correct heating element, and slid unbroken connector on one element side, and soldered 2nd element on. Screwed heating element in and it works fine.

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

The detection of the part and the replacement of the upper spray arm was quite easy, because of its unique shape and function, and also because it was easy to screw in place. I saved the web order page in case this part tends to deteriorate frequently, even though it is the first time it showed this problem since we purchased this appliance.

take the 2 screws that hold the handle on out...watch the glass front and the side trims because the handle holds them on. Take the glass out then remove the side trims. Replace the side trims holding the glass in place with 2 pieces of masking tape om each side then install the handle with the 2 screws and remove the masking tape.

Unpluged from electric. I took two bolts out of back of oven attached to boiler. Pulled out and exposed cords the attach to boiler. Slide them off and removed old boiler. Attached cords to new boiler and slide part back in to attach the two bolts back. Plugged oven back in and worked great

Yes... it exploded. Ordered the part which was delivered promptly. Installed in about 30 minutes with a helper. Just unscrew the 4 interior screws and a bunch of the screws (10 maybe?) on the back panel. Drop the back panel, remove the electrical connections from the broiler element and have your helper pull it out. Shove the new one in carefully through the insulation, attach the two electrical connections and reattach all the screws. Worked fine but smelled a bit as it burned off the new coating. About a 30 minute project.

just replaced the broken glides with the new ones.

I determined the problem by swapping the 8 inch burner with a 6 inch burner. the 8 inch got hot when connected to the 6 inch wire harness. This told me that the 8 inch burner was good. The 6 inch failed to get hot so I determined the next logical thing was the power to the 8 inch burner. I used a multi meter to determine that power was getting into the control unit but no voltage was getting out. The controller was bad. I ordered a new controller and after unplugging the stove, replaced the controller in about 10 minutes. (Critical part of repair is to unplug unit from wall -220 volts!)

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

turn the light on in the oven go to the breaker box and shut off power to the oven when light is out is good indicator remove two screws in back of oven that secure element to back then remove two screws on top inside the oven to almost finish removal. phillips head screwdriver and needle nose pliers and two small spring loaded clamps are all you will need to accomplish thismove the upper element side to side until the connectors are exposed in the back of the stove pull the two wires out about 4 inches should be enough place the spring loaded clamps on each wire so as to not allow them to slip back in the stove body. take the needle nose and while holding the clamp remove the connector from each wire once this is done place the new element in the stove and reconnect the clips on the end off the element move the wires and connectors back into the openings on the stove and replace the two screws replace the two upper screws check all screws for tightness go to the breaker box and turn on the power takes about thirty minutes