TES325EW0 Estate Range - Instructions

I determined the problem by swapping the 8 inch burner with a 6 inch burner. the 8 inch got hot when connected to the 6 inch wire harness. This told me that the 8 inch burner was good. The 6 inch failed to get hot so I determined the next logical thing was the power to the 8 inch burner. I used a multi meter to determine that power was getting into the control unit but no voltage was getting out. The controller was bad. I ordered a new controller and after unplugging the stove, replaced the controller in about 10 minutes. (Critical part of repair is to unplug unit from wall -220 volts!)

Only difficult because one heating element connector broken off. Before receiving correct part, tried to install generic element, which had leads about 2 inches too long, so trying to force into place bent electrical connectors that go from oven to heating element. Tried to bend one back and it broke off, so did not bend 2nd one back. Received correct heating element, and slid unbroken connector on one element side, and soldered 2nd element on. Screwed heating element in and it works fine.

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

The replacement proceeds similarly as for electric range switch replacements described here, only this model is a gas range. The top panel does not lift up because of the feeds to the gas burners. It is possible, using a thin blade, to depress the spring fingers holding the switch in the oven panel, or else to remove it destructively. Be careful not to pull the old switch out too far, or else the wires will pull off the switch connectors and fall inside the oven-side panel cavity. This happened to me. The wires are very short. Another 1/2 inch of wire would have made all the difference. If this happens you have to fish out the loose wire. I gave up on this and took off the back panel (about 8 screws) and then loosened the bottom and sides of the side panel. This allowed me to retrieve the short wire and connect it to the back of the switch while pushing the switch into its mounting hole. Reattach the side panel, the back panel, and slide the stove back into place, and you should be good to go.

Unplug power. Remove panel on the back. Unplug heater.From front remove 3 screws and remove heater. Installed new heater. On the back restored connections - squized the lugs to have better connection. Put panel back. Plug the power and see if the coil get red. It looked good. Used oven few times it works fine. Difficoult part is to clean oven all around from accumulated grease. First repair for this stove, most of the time spend on figuring out what to open, no instructions.

Undid one screw. Removed the broken slide. Replaced with new slide an fastened with the existing screw. Problem solved.

I purchased a new infinite control switch 6". and replace the old one.

I was 100% happy with the whole process! The part arrived on schedule, it was exactly what I wanted! The best part of the story is I am a 77 year old lady whose husband was out of town and had never done this before. I could not have been happier with the process! Thanks again and I will use PartSelect again!!!

Removed lower oven rack. Unplugged stove,removed 2 screws holding element in place,pulled element forward unplugged 2 wires. Reversed proc. To reinstall . Very simple. Parts were here in less than 24 hrs using standard shipping. Very good service

I found a video on YouTube and watched it showing how to change the element - then I performed the repair based on the instructions and recommendations in the video. The video had some good recommendations and cautions that helped ensure a successful repair.

I took the burner out of the box and snapped it into the slots on the stove, turned on the stove and made dinner! By the way, I received it in 2 days, which was great. I will recommend your company to others and purchase all of my appliance replacement parts from Parts Select. The Norton Service Guarantee was awesome!! Thank you.

Removed burners and drip pans, replaced drip pans and re-installed burners. Simple....

It was as simple as using a screwdrivers and replacing in existing slot. Thank you. It works great!

Pulled out the generics and popped in the correct bowls for my whirlpool. Done in less than 10 minutes and perfecto,. . . Level burners :-) thanks we'll be back when we need you again.