TES326RD3 Estate Range - Instructions

This is the second time PartSelect came through for me. If it hadn't been for you guys, I'd have had to buy a new Jenn-Air cooktop, because ours is nearly 30 years old. About two years ago, I bought a new two-burner cartridge, which installed without tools in about one minute. But a few weeks ago, we lost the burner in the other cartridge. I emailed PartSelect, and even though I gave them my obsolete model number, a helpful service rep managed to find me the part number of the correct burner, so I was able to place my order. Once the part arrived, there was no problem replacing the burner. This is a simple operation we've performed many times when we need to remove the burner for cleaning.

Wire connection was damaged, replaced end piece

removed the old and replaced with new

My wife did it! I got home one night and my wife had done it! That's how easy it was! Trust me, he is no handyman (woman) but she did it by herself. The part came fast, the price was better than any one else's

Plugged in the new burner, which we received in one day.We were delighted with the quick service

After unplugging electric service, loosened 3 Philips-head screws holding 3 wires from range and loosened 3 nuts holding wires from electric cord. Also removed 1 Philips-head screw holding grounding tab. Removed 2 Philips-head screws and removed the old block. Mounted new block with those screws and replaced and tightened all 6 wires.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

As a former appliance repairman, the installation went just like the repair instruction video.
Just use care not to scratch anything and clean behind the appliance and cabinet walls, etc. It's worth a hug and a piece of pie!

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

It went great. I am not very handy, but with a little help from your website reviews, I was able to easily remove the old broiler element and replace it with the new one in less than an hour. I immediately tested it and found that it worked great.

Unplugged, took off back, removed old part, put on new part and connected. Replugged and it worked great.

Unpluged range for safety (power earlier removed by circuit breaker turnoff).
Removed two screws from front switch cover.
Removed knob from effected switch and removed the wires on the back of the switch.
Removed two screws holding switch and removed switch.
Reversed the process to install new switch.
The entire project took about ten minutes.

Unplugged unit from wall.
Unscrewed the two screws on at he back of the oven where the element is attached
Removed old element by pulling apart the connectors.
Attached new element to the connectors.
Replaced cover with the two screws.

Removed drawer, after removing the 50# of junk in the drawer, Used screw driver to remove screw that holds glide to drawer and then place new part into place put screw into hole and tightened screw. Replaced drawer and told wife not to put 50# of junk back into the drawer.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.