TGS325GW0 Estate Range - Instructions

Ordered the replacement part., removed the old trim from the door and reinstalled the new trim. On the drawer glide, I simply reattached a new one to replace the one missing.

Opened lower door of stove located ignitor removed 2 small screws that secure part, took guard off back of stove unplugged wire connector removed part plugged new ignitor in re-installed guard, re-installed 2 screws that secure ignitor. Turned stove on oven lit problem solved. This is the 3rd time i have used instant repairman on parts select to fix 3 different applicances and have saved hundreds of dollars fixing it myself with the help of parts select.

I removed the oven racks, removed the oven floor and the oven burner cover, pulled the range out and removed the small panel on the back which covers the igniter connector. I disconnected the old igniter, removed the two screws holding the igniter in place and removed the old igniter from the oven. Then screwed on the new igniter, fed the wire through to the back and connected the new igniter. Turned on the oven and voila' we have ingnition! The oven is working again but I'm getting the "F2" routine sometimes. It doesn't do it every time but when it does I unplug and replug and then it works. I'm a 67 year old female and I considered it very easy so pretty much anyone should be able to do this repair.

I pulled the stove out from the wall & took the back lower right cover off. Unplugged the power cord & disconnected the igniter from the power. Took shelves & bottom cover (took two screws out)from oven. Used nutdriver to remove old igniter, then pulled the connector through into the oven, discard. Put new igniter in place with nutdriver.Push connecting cord through to back of stove.Replace bottom cover & shelves. Plug cords together & plug cord back in to outlet.Turn stove on & igniter works!!! Push stove back into place & bake a cake! :)

Used new differant screws to mount it and cut and spliced the wires to use the org. Plug.

Removed bottom plate by pulling up from the back (had some resitance), Two machine screws holding cover over igniter, used 3/8" socket to remove. Pulled oven from wall to disconnect igniter @ coupler, unscrew one more machine screw, fed replacement igniter into slot and coupled, attached single screw to pipe, put cover w/ 2 machine screws on top, install bottom plate. Had to use butter knife to get bottom plate to fit into the front cabinet area of stove. Done & working fine.

The igniter would glow but no gas was released to the burner. I was told that the igniter is bad because it is not getting hot enough to open the safety valve to release the gas to the burner. I turn the gas off and unplugged the oven. Opened the oven removed the racks then removed the two screws that hold the bottom plate of the oven. Now I can see the burner and the igniter. The igniter is held on to the burner with two screws. Unscrew then and unplugged the wires. Then replaced with new igniter. Replaced everything that I removed. Plugged oven back in and turned on gas. Then started oven, it takes 45 sec. for the igniter to get hot enough to release the gas and everything was working.

Since the broiler worked fine, I took the igniter from the broiler (exact same) and moved it to the bottom and sure enough oven ignited fine. I did this to isolate the problem, because it could have been either the igniter or the valve. I put the broiler igniter back on top when I got the new part, because it is used only 5% of the time. Be aware that you may need to rummage for some machine screws because the factory screws stripped when I removed them. The oven must have annealed them.

We ordered our part from PartSelect.com, of course, using their diagnostic tool(s). We received it very rapidly after ordering (a day or two). It involved taking two screws out of the bottom plate of the oven. There were two screws in the diverter (?), but they weren't attached to anything. I had my son, who is young, strong, and small get behind the oven to locate where the igniter plugged in. He detached it and I unscrewed the nuts holding it in place. One of them was in pretty crooked and made it a little difficult. But I pulled it out. I put the new one in place, my son plugged it in, and I replaced the two nuts, securing the new one in place. I replaced all the parts and their screws while the wife cleaned the gunk from behind where the stove sits. We did perform a quick test prior to re-assembly and it looked good. Re-attached everything, put it back in place and it's working like a dream. Just in time for Fall baked goods...

The first challenge is always how to get the appliance apart; in this case how to open the top of the stove. There are two clips one on each side towards the front that you need to push in to release the top. However before you do this you need to unscrew and remove each of the burners from the top of the stove. After that, push the clips in with a flat blade screwdriver from each side to lift up the top. You will need to remove completely the top back plate on the rear of the appliance to get to the igniter module where you plug in the wires from the individual igniters. Then you also need to remove the top four screws from the lower rear plate to allow it to be pulled open enough to help thread the wire from the new igniter through. After that you simply figure out which wire (they are individually colored based on their position on the burner) and disconnect from the igniter module. Carefully pull it out watching where it came from so you can rout the new wire in a similar manner. Then remove it completely pulling it through the top of the stove and replace with the new igniter. Reverse the steps to put everything back together and you should be good to go. Be prepared to take a little extra time to clean the cook top as once you remove the burner you will see everything that has over the years accumulated between the burner and the stove top. All together it took me about a 1/2 hour (including the cleaning).

Removed a cover plate on the back of the stove. Unplugged the old igniter. Pulled the bottom drawer out. Reached in under the stove and undid the 2 screws holding the igniter in place. Screwed the new igniter in and put everything back together. The only tricky bit was reaching the igniter through the bottom drawer opening.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Moved oven away from wall, Turned off gas and unplugged electrical from wall. The igniter has a coupler plug that you have to unplug from behind the unit. Take out the bottom drawer. Remove the 2 nuts holding the igniter in place. Remove old igniter. Replace with the new igniter, screw in nuts and thread connector wire to back of unit. Reconnect the igniter behind the unit. Turn on gas and plug in electricity. I checked to make sure it worked before pushing it back into place. I also took time to clean up while the oven was pulled out so it took about an hour - 15 minutes to replace the part - 45 to clean up. Works and looks just like a new oven range!

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

remove burner - 2 phillips head screws. Raise top - cut wire to ignitor. Strip wires and connect with a wire nut. Drop in new ignitor - reinstall burner.