TGS325GW1 Estate Range - Instructions

Turned off CB for the oven,Remove the oven from the cabinet , remove the back of the oven, replaced the light Assembly. turned on CB for the oven, tested the light. and truned off the CB and replace the back and reinstalled the oven in the cabinet.

removed the old ones.then installed the new ones.

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

very easy

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Ordered the replacement part., removed the old trim from the door and reinstalled the new trim. On the drawer glide, I simply reattached a new one to replace the one missing.

Removed the floor of the oven. Removed the flame difuser covering the burner. Igniter was in plain sight. Turned on the oven and saw that the element in the igniter did not glow. Removed the igniter. Found a replacement on this site. Ordered the replacement part, which I received 3 or 4 days later. Installed the new igniter. Turned on the oven. Saw the igniter element turn bright red. Replaced the difuser and the oven floor. Turned on the oven and bake 2 loaves of sour dough bread.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

The first challenge is always how to get the appliance apart; in this case how to open the top of the stove. There are two clips one on each side towards the front that you need to push in to release the top. However before you do this you need to unscrew and remove each of the burners from the top of the stove. After that, push the clips in with a flat blade screwdriver from each side to lift up the top. You will need to remove completely the top back plate on the rear of the appliance to get to the igniter module where you plug in the wires from the individual igniters. Then you also need to remove the top four screws from the lower rear plate to allow it to be pulled open enough to help thread the wire from the new igniter through. After that you simply figure out which wire (they are individually colored based on their position on the burner) and disconnect from the igniter module. Carefully pull it out watching where it came from so you can rout the new wire in a similar manner. Then remove it completely pulling it through the top of the stove and replace with the new igniter. Reverse the steps to put everything back together and you should be good to go. Be prepared to take a little extra time to clean the cook top as once you remove the burner you will see everything that has over the years accumulated between the burner and the stove top. All together it took me about a 1/2 hour (including the cleaning).

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Pulled racks and covers out of oven. Moved stove away from wall. removed bolts holding igniter. Disconnected wiring harness. Reverse process to install new part.

just replaced the broken glides with the new ones.