TGP325KW0 Estate Range - Instructions

After I found the web site I looked at the possible solutions for my problem. My igniter was glowing so I was not sure that would fix the problem but several places indicated the igniter would fix the problem and after I replaced it the oven work great.

Unsrewed what was left of the trim and oven handle. Just 4 screws total, then replaced the 2 screws of the trim and the 2 screws on handle.
Finished! Replacement parts fit perfect!!! Thanks a milliion!

Replaced broken knobs. No tools needed.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

Removed two screws holding the bottom in, pulled out old bottom, inserted new bottom, replaced screws and tightened them. Total time less than five minutes.

I didn't do it, but I suggest putting down newspaper to keep from having to clean up all the charred remains that will inevitably fall from the parts you have to remove. First, unplug the thing so you don't shock yourself. I removed all the racks for easy access to the drip pan, which had to be removed by unscrewing two screws. Then there was a cover over the flame area that also required two screws being removed. The coil had two screws connecting it, but first I had to pull out the drawer at the bottom, crawl under the unit and unplug the coil. I removed the two screws from the old coil and replaced it with the new one, but first I had to get back under and plug in the new coil. I was unprepared for the virtual small animals that were under the stove, so I took some time to clean out that mess. I tested the thing to make sure it would work, and it did. I put all the pieces back in reverse order and had some really good baked chicken for dinner. I also recommend using gloves, as all the soot is hell on your nice manicure.

Took knob off ordered new one put it in place

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

simple change out - remove old grates, install new ones - note that this site/store is excellent

Removed two screws and the front of the door popped off. Replaced the bottom metal piece that the glass front slides into. It was a piece of cake.

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

Our existing gas stove burner igniter had broken on one of the four burners. I therefore obtained a replacement igniter and mounting screw form PartSelect.com which were indeed perfect replacement parts. However, I could not remove the burner plates from the top of the stove since they were basically welded into position by years of heat. I therefore followed instructions as submitted by a previous customer (thank you Michael of Bloomington, Il), snapped open the stove lid retainer clips, and then lifted the stove surface about 4 inches. Through that opening I was able to reach the underside of the involved burner. Unfortunately, I could not unscrew the existing broken igniter mounting screw and therefore had to break off the already broken igniter and grind down the remaining mounting screw using a drill grinder since the screw was basically welded into place. Once I did that, I was then able to install the new igniter using a separate unused screw hole already in place right beside the old previous mounting screw. With that done, the new igniter works perfectly and the burner works just like new. It was however a lengthy process over two hours long because of the glitches described above. Nevertheless I'm very pleased that the parts were perfect and the repair is complete.

The parts I got were exactly like the original knobs and were a breeze to snap on. Range working great again . The wife is happy again lol

1. Removed old knobs and the adapter piece with pliers ( I tried using cheap universal knobs from Lowe’s first that were garbage)

2. Push the new knobs onto the shaft and voila. Perfect fit and range looks new again. Replaced all 4 on my black whirlpool gas range