TGS325MQ4 Estate Range - Instructions

Remove the plug from outlet then shutoff gas. Remove the 10 screws hold the back panel of the oven. Unclip the connector of the temperature sensor from the main line. Pull the sensor straightout. Reverse the process install the new sensor. Couldn't be any easier. Oven working great. Calling in a reapairman would have cost $200 for parts and labor.

Removed door per instructions in manual. Removed racks and storage drawer per manual. Removed two phillips head screws holding bottom pan and removed pan. Removed two phillips head screws holding igniter tube (#12) and withdrew tube from the cavity. Removed two phillips head screws holding igniter and bracket to the tube. Unplugged elcetrical connection to igniter and installed new igniter in reverse order. Too bad the igniter wasn't the problem.

I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.

Took the old one out and replaced it with the new one, fits perfect.

I remove bottom trim which is held on by 3 screws and try to install new bottom trim, did not work well. I then remove yop handle assem. Then the door glass which you need to clean after. Then install the new bottom trim then insert the glass into the new bottom strip using masking tape to hold the glass and side strips in place prior to installing the the top handle piece which is held on by two screws. Not a hard job to do.

Pulled shelves out removed bottom plate of oven remove heat shield cover removed screws had to remove bottom drawer disconnect wire from bottom of igniter and remove from top side . Replaced by reversing steps.

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

We took the door off and took it and the side panels to the local dealer and he put them on for us - for anyone needing to replace the side panels on the over, be aware they slide under the glass front -not over it like we tried to do. We thought, though, that we were going to have a buy a new stove but for a little over $70. 00 We got the parts, had them installed and saved over $800 on a new stove - well worth the effort.

The first thing you need to do is remove the racks from your oven.

Then look around at the back of your oven for the screws that hold the bottom pan down.

Remove those screws and remove the pan. Some need to slide back and then come up others will just pull up.

Remove the heat shield that is over the burner.

Remove the bottom drawer of your oven.

Now you should be able to see the igniter that sits on an angle by the burner tubes with a couple of wires coming out of it.

Removing the screws that hold the igniter is probably the most difficult part with some ovens. Sometimes it is easier to remove the whole bracket that holds the igniter and then remove and replace the igniter out of the oven.

The wires for the igniter will go to a Molex plug. Follow the wires and undo the plug. On many units it will be below the oven in the drawer opening at the top back. You will need to lay flat on the floor and reach back in to do this.

Once you have the old igniter out then you can carefully install the new one.

Check to make sure that you can feed the Molex plug and wires down through to the bottom before fastening the igniter.

Once the igniter is secured and the plug is connected, you can then replace the other parts in the reverse order that they came out.

Open oven door and remove racks. Remove 2 screws at back of oven floor and remove bottom plate. Unscrew screws that hold flame defuser. Remove defuser. Remove screws that hold bake igniter and flame tube. Unplug wire to bake igniter. Remove screws to bake igniter. Replace old igniter with new igniter. Replace screws and wire to igniter. Replace flame defuser and put screws back. Put bottom plate back into oven. Replace 2 screws at back. Replace racks. close door and test by setting thermostat to some temperature and verify that oven works.

Replacement knob took less than 30 seconds to put on.

Turn off the breaker to the range. Unplug, too. Took off the 8 screws that hold the upper back panel on. Took a picture of the wire setup (this ain't my first rodeo). Removed two screws on the bottom of the old latch that hold it in place. Carefully removed the wire leads with needle-nose pliers because I didn't want to replace the wire leads. Reconnected the wires to the new latch, replaced the two screws to hold it onto the oven. Tested with the rocker switch on top and the oven door, both worked. Put the back panel on with the 8 screws.

just replaced the broken glides with the new ones.

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.