E36GF76JPS2 Electrolux Range - Instructions

It was the week before Thanksgiving and we didn't know what to do without an oven. I did some research on Google and of all the websites out there, I found a decent price here at Parts Select and ordered it on Friday. I was shocked when FEDEX pulled up to the door on Saturday afternoon. I went online to youtube and found a step by step video specifically for this part. It's posted by the Repair Clinic. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLxKoF16gac. I was able to fix the part and probably saved at least $150.00 for a service call and repair time. The part cost about $90 and I was done in less than 15 minutes. We just got this stove about 2 years ago and I'm thinking maybe we could have saved my old stove since it had the same problem. Great job Parts Select - I got just what I needed and saved a ton of money in the process. Thanks also for their great informative video online. We had a great Thanksgiving and were very thankful for all our hot food fresh from the oven.

I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).

Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.

Lifted the oven top, removed the controls cover, slipped the lens into the hole and slid the light holder device onto the lens

After reading a lot of reviews online, I came to the conclusion it was the bake igniter. The "glow rod" would glow but would not ignite the oven. The broiler would ignite and the top burners would work. I removed the racks, took a screwdriver and removed the 2 screws in the back corners. I then slid the bottom shield towards the back then lifted up and the shield came off and exposed the flame shield. I removed the screws the hold that in place on the front of the oven with my 6 way screwdriver. I used the nutdriver part. Lifted that off which exposed the the actual flame tube and bake igniter. There were two screws, used the nutrdiver on the 6 way screwdriver, holding the bake igniter on. The screws are on the side of it. Removed those and the igniter came free. I pulled out the warming drawer and followed the wire from the igniter to a wiring harness. Pulled that apart and pulled the whole thing out through the oven. Got the new part, reversed order of removal. Fired right up. Pretty pricey part. But, saved 500+ dollars for a new range. Actual removal and install of new part, maybe 20 minutes if that. Super easy.

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

Disconnected power, I removed the igniter from oven. Measured the resistance (275 ohms) and then the current draw. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNLESS YOU ARE ABLE TO ACCOMPLISH THIS SAFELY. I made a harness and connected the old igniter to 110 V ac, Current draw thru the meter settled at 2.7 Amps. Too weak to fully open gas valve. Valve requires 3.2 - 3.6 amps to fully operate properly. New igniter measured 300 ohms and current draw was 3.4 amps. Installed new part and everything works fine. Correct part and good service from this site

Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.

Wife was cooking our thanks giving turkey, when an oder of burning was noticed. I walked over to the oven and smelled the area of oven light, it was bad. I turned off and unpluged oven. Got a screw driver, unscrewed 4 screws then noticed the burned switch from under the oven top. removed 3 wires, covered w/ elec. tape, and pulled oven light switch out front. looked at part number and ordered online. We were able to cook our turkey and enjoyed our meal.

Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,

First we replaced the wiring harness because a multi-meter said it wasn’t getting power. That was only partially true. The wiring harness was burned looking so we just kept it instead of sending it back. When the spark module got here the burner caps were removed and then the wires were noted where they went on the module and then the power and gas were turned off. The spark module was removed and then the stove was tested and we were back in business.

Had to pull back off due plug in for bake Ignitor is on bottom right Conner , mfg ill design , part was is to install after that. Parts select is great to deal with first part showed up damage due to shipping , parts select sent another with better packaging , works great have used them in the past for Ref ice maker parts . Due it yourself save money

Pulled stove out and unplugged it.
Used a Phillips screwdriver to take the back cover off of the control panel.
Each of the 7 lights connects to the red Indicator Light Lens via a slide clamp which is attached to the front of the light assembly. All you have to do is slide the lens into the hole from the outside of the control panel. Then with your other hand, pust the light assembly into the back of the lens and slide it to lock it in place. Repeat with the others.
Replace back cover.
Plug stove back in and slide back into place.
There are you tube videos out there to help you.

Slide Range away from wall, unplug Range, remove rear cover (4) screws, removed burner assembly (5) screws, unplugged Igniter connector, loosen Igniter bracket, remove Igniter (2) screws. Reverse process to install new Igniter. I also wore latex gloves to prevent touching graphite portion of Igniter. Tested Broiler for operation, slid Range back into position. All good.

moved the stove forward and removed old cord by uncruing two small screw and on ploged the all and replaced with the new one.

New part needed to be spliced to old connector with porcelain wire nuts then removed lower oven drawer to access the connection for igniter