C31113XAW Crosley Range - Instructions

clock is in top of double oven. Dis-assembly and access to the clock was a puzzle. Four screws in the top of the oven were the solution. The clock panel then folded out and access to three plug-ins and four screws allowed access to the clock. remounted the clock with four screws and replaced plugs. (watch carefully order of wiring) Re-power on the oven and set clock. NOTE: Cover said Magic Chef but Label said MayTag

Slid two latches at rear of bottom oven pan toward door, pulled pan up at rear of oven and removed. Igniter exposed, removed two self-tapping screws with nutdriver, pulled wires surrounded by insulation up out of hole in ovenfloor an unsnapped plastic connector wired to old igniter. screwed new igniter to bracket, reconnected wires, pushed connectors into hole and shoved new insulation around wires, fitted bottom pan and turned on oven. Works better than new, Thanks PARTSELECT.

I pulled out the gas range, unplugged the unit from the outlet. Unscrewed about two panels, one is the black cardboard panel located on top, then the aluminum main panel.

Located the spark module, unscrewed the unit from resting plate. Did not change the plate, although the new unit came with a new one, but it doesn't fit. So I just rested the new one on the old plate.

Pulled each wire slowly out and inserted it onto the new spark module.

Screwed in all the panels back and returned the stove to its proper place.

The range now works as well as the oven, but my broiler still does not light up.

Easy repair. I removed the module housing at the back of the stove (two screws) and slipped the wires off the old spark module (I had to use pliers to gently pull one or two wires off--it's an old stove). The existing wires slipped right on the new module. I did have to use the mounting adapter that came with the kit, but that was the fiddliest part of the whole repair. It took me longer to move the stove out and back than it did to do the repair.

If you watched the video on installing the part it IS that easy. The connector piece matched exactly with what my oven already had so it was as simple as disconnecting the old piece and plugging in the new piece. There was no hidden challenges or obstacles to overcome. The oven works perfectly fine there was a slight smell when I first turned on the oven but I am attributing that to a new part. The smell did go away. I am 24 years old and a female who has limited knowledge in electrical/oven work.

TOOK OVEN BOTTOM APART AND LOSSENED OLD IGNITERTHEN WENT TO BACK OF OVEN TOOK BACK OFF DISCONETED OLD IGNITER PULLED THE NEW THUR AND CONNECTED PUT BACK ON THEN ATTACHED FROM THE FRONT PUT OVEN BACK TOGATHER THEN TURNED OVEN ON IT WORKED I DID IT MYSELF I AM 64 YEAR OLD WOMEN

The ignitor is held on by two screws which were rusted in place. When I tried to remove them, the screws became stripped and had to be cut off.

Once the part was free, the rest of the repair went quickly . At that point:
- Pull the element leads enough to get to the plastic connector
- Disconnect the old part
- Connect the new part
- Re-attach to the bracket with new screws.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

slide latches in rear of floor panel forward and remove.

1. Closed gas valve at stove supply outlet.
2. Unplugged stove electrical connection
3. Unplugged electrical connections to defective valve
4. Removed 4 screws on burner side of heat heat shield
5. Disconnected gas inlet to defective valve
6. Removed 2 screws holding valve retainer to bottom of unit
7. Lifted gas burner inlet tube while pushing valve toward rear of unit - - - (a bit tricky)
8. Removed valve from rear by tilting forward so valve outlet clear the burner inlet tube and heat shield. Heat shield is not removed, but must be raised enough to allow passage of the valve outlet protrusion.
9. Installed new valve by repeating the preceding steps in reverse.
10. Reconnected gas and electrical, and checked performance

First I want thank you for being there for me . If it wasn't for you I would be having thanksgiving at my mother inlaw first iremoved the two screwsthat holds thy element in place. I then pulledthe element out about 3 in and disconnected the two wires . It's easy as 1. 2. 3

I researched the stories on Partsselect, and it looked like this would be a simple repair. Fortunately, it was more simple than I'd thought. We bought the house (and stove) used, and the ignitor apparently had been replaced before, because the part was an EXACT replacement for the old one. I simply unscrewed the two screws holding the old ignitor onto the bracket/burner, pulled the wiring from the back of the oven through the insulation, disconnected the snap connector, reattached the new one. Then I pushed the wiring back through the insulation and added some additional insulation (provided with the part), making sure all extra length was pushed into the insulation. Reattached with two screws using a nut driver, replaced the bottom pan in the oven, slid the door back on its two hinges and started it up. Works perfectly. Thanks Partselect. You guys are great and I had the replacement my mail in about 5 working days!

took out both racks and under tray at bottom of stove no tools required.
used a nut driver to remove both screws holding ignighter in place ,pulled wires up gentily and remove from standard clip by pushing ends in.
clip new ignighter in place push wires down again and install 2 screws . put all back together and it works like new .

removed 2 screws and unpluged ingiter plug ed new igniter in replaced screws and worked fine

Removed bottom tray of oven, unscrewed gas pipe, removed old igniter and replaced it. Spent some extra time digging around for leads, etc. before discovering that my new igniter was identical to the old one and all I had to do was plug it in.