CRE3580QWA Crosley Range - Instructions

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief:
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.

I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.

Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.

I had already switched off the breaker for the range, so I unplugged the unit and moved it out from the wall. I removed the screws on the rear cover and exposed the clock/timer. I then removed the four screws holding the clock/timer,used my pocket knife to gently pry the wires off of the old unit one at a time, as these were very tight. Holding the new clock/timer in my other hand I installed the wires one at a time to match the original clock timer wiring.I installed the clock/timer, the range back cover, slid the range back into place, plugged it in and turned on the breaker. My wife is happy, I am too.
A repair shop wanted $100.00 just to go to our home and look at our range. We spent $104.00 plus $20.00 for the new overlay, fifteen minutes of my time, a real bargin!
Thank you PartSelect, I'll be ordering from you again!

Replaced switch by according to video with no issues, Terminals were nearly identical as the new switch.

The terminals on the new burner were not located in the same position as the terminals on the old burner. I had to reference the wiring diagram to locate the correct wire to terminal location. There was not enough slack in the wires to position the new burner in the same position as the old burner. I had to rotate the new burner so the wires would reach. This cause me to have to rotate the warming burner because rotating the new burner, the terminals interfered with the terminals on the warming burner. I also had to reposition some of the wires so they would not contact the burner and terminals.

Discovered that that oven control panel was to blame for both heating elements to stop working at the same time. Went online and ordered the part which was delivered in 2 days. Installation very basic and included the following: 1)Pulled out stove and un-plugged stove 2)Removed top rear panel 3) Removed 4 screws of the damaged control panel (leaving all wires plugged in) 4)Installed new control panel and connected wires one by one to make sure done correctly 5) Replaced rear panel plugged in stove testing oven.

purchased a square bit and removed screws easily and disconnected it from the wiring and pushed in the new element secured screw and it was back to baking.

Watch video. This oven had the connecters that popped off and on which made this task easy.

Unplug the stove or disconnect at the breaker. Open the oven and remove the bake racks. Using a nut driver (or Phillips Screwdriver) remove the screws (one per side) that secure the bake element. Place them in a safe/secure place outside of the oven. Carefully pull straight back on the element until about 3 inches of the wire, that connects to the element, is exposed. Carefully unplug the wire from each element (make sure that the wire does not pull back into the oven insulation. I placed a small metal clip on each wire). Remove the old element and plug the new one in. Put everything back in the exact same way you took the old one out. Power the oven up and preheat your oven. Monitor this - should be no problem at all. Very simple process. My first attempt at this and it was very easy.

The elements tested good. Figured it was the electronic clock timer/control using the sites repair guidance and ordered the part. The remove and replace was very easy. Pulled the stove out, removed back panel and removal and replacement of the part is pretty basic. Be sure and unplug the appliance first. Everything works fine now.

Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.

With no install instructions (NOT good for diy-ers), looked through reviews and watched video for help. Replacement part - not same as original. Had to use magnifying glass to id the terminals / take a picture before disassembly. reassembled - found out terminals are different & black wire is too short. Took off element - rotated the clips one number counter clockwise, reassembled - removed black wire from harness for extra reach. Hooked up, lowered top for test. power on - everything OK. Power off - complete assembly. Power on - test. Seems to be good. When I called customer service for assistance because there was no instruction, they told me I should contact a local appliance repair person. (big joke).

Removed four srews from bak of the oven so I could get to the timer. Then I unplugged the oven swapped out the wires put everything back together. Plug it back in and started the oven. Work great. Also you must remove the timer faceplate carefully or you will peel off the white.