WFF334GCA Crosley Range - Instructions

This is an easy repair, as described in several other replies. One important addition to what has already been described. Very important to turn off the breaker or unplug the range. One terminal of the range is connected to a hot wire and the range housing is grounded. You may not manage to electrocute yourself, but you could cause and arc that damages the housing or connector. Turn off the power. Beyond that, simple. Unscrew two 1/4" screws with a nut driver, slide the element out and disconnect the wire connectors. Reverse procedure to install the new element and turn the power back on. Preheat briefly to burn off any odor. Very easy repair.

Unplug the oven, remove oven racks, unscrew 2 screws at the base of oven bake element, pull the terminals off the wire bases, plug terminals back in, put screws back in place, plug in oven and test that it works...

Simply...2 hex head screws removed. Unplug old element...plug in new element...place 2 screws back into place...test

Remove 2 screws. Pull element out. Slide 2 wires off. Just do in reverse it's done.

just put in slot

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

Drank a beer, grabbed a screwdriver & tried to remove the two screws that held the element in place. The screws were old and when I turned them, they stripped instantly. This required another beer. Eventually I used pliers to grip the sides of the screws to remove and reinsrt them. When I finished the oven worked great, so I celebrated with another beer.

I was forced to call in a pro repairman. Will cost me at least $150 for part and repairman. I could have done job if instructions on how to rewire had been included.

I watched the video of the repair. It was very easy; removed 2 screws; disconnected 2 push-on tabs; removed the element; and then reversed the operation. Be sure to turn off the circuit breaker that powers the oven before you start the repair. Turn it back on when finished and test the oven.

Remove drawer. Insert new slide. Install drawer.

first thing was to turn the breakers off. then pull the range away from the wall. used an 1/8 th inch socket to take off the back panel to get access to the switch.used a Phillips screwdriver to disconnect the switch under the knob in the front. took off the wire terminals one at a time and matched it to the numbers on the old switch.replaced the knob, screwed it on to the range. turned the breakers on and tested the switch.worked fine, replaced the back cover and pushed it back into place.

was easy open the back side of the range and change the part, the only issue was the wire I used the diagram

Your website is great...easy and it literally took me no mote than 5 minutes to find what I needed and order...and received it VERY quickly. Must say I was dreading going to some parts house that we have in our town in bad area, and searching on dusty shelves for what I needed...am so glad I found you!!

this bake element has two special Hex style screws, securing it in place, but a nut driver worked just as well. remove the baking racks, and then loosen the two hex screws. slowly pull the element out of the back wall and then disconnect the electric leads. reinstall by doing then the opposite action. could not have be simpler.

Once I recieved the new part it was easy to determine what two screws to remove to remove both the panel and the handle. I removed the two screws, slid the panel up and removed it. The new panel locked into place when slid down over the door and I replaced the sctews.