CRE3890HWWE Crosley Range - Instructions

Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.

1. Order part
2. Remove 2 top screws holding vent cover and carefully remove
cover
3. Open door all the way and lift, door will come of the microwave
4. Set door on a flat surface facing down
5. You will need a flat screwdriver,carefully set the screwdriver
between the door and the black plastic and pry out completely
6. Remove screws holding handle. (This will be a good time to clean
the inside of this door)
7. Attach new handle tighten screws
8. Put black plastic back in door and press on all around make sure
that is set in place
9. Re-install door and vent.

replaced it

Called fridgidaire and they told me the a F31 code means my temperature sensor is not working.
So I ordered one online. I installed it and I still have F31 code and still won't work. So what now? Do I trust them to tell me another part?

On this website, I found an instruction manual for this stove. There were 2 pages about how to change the glass on the oven door, including diagrams. I'd also checked a generic youtube video on changing inner glass on oven doors too, although the hinges in the youtube demo weren't exactly like those in mine. I printed out the instructions, checked the oven door to make sure the hinges looked like those in the diagrams, set aside a couple of hours on a free day with no other distractions, and did the job. I just kept removing screws from the inside oven door, peeling back the layers of the onion, until I got to the innermost glass, which was cracked. Put the new glass in, put it back together. On youtube the guy said it would take 20 minutes. It took me about an hour. Saved a ton of money by doing it myself.

I followed two very good videos on how to do the repairs. It took longer to clean all the disassembled parts and the glass than it did to actually do the repair.
A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to lock them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down.
The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.

I unplugged the Stove/Oven electrical cord from the wall, then removed the oven door by unlocking the door brackets with a flat head screw driver then closing the door to the last position before it closes and removing the door from the stove (found instructions on YouTube - very easy, which is optional), then removed the oven racks. Removing the door made it a lot easier to access the broil element and element support bracket screws using a socket wrench. I removed the screws from the rear cover on the back of the stove with a socket wrench to access and disconnect the broil element wires with my hand (pliers if needed). I removed the old broil element and inserted and reconnected the new broil element wires, then re-installed the rear cover. I tightened the broil element in place then re-installed the element support bracket and screws, replaced the oven racks, re-installed the oven door and plugged the stove into the wall. This took about twenty minutes and the broil element is working fine.

Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.

Easy as 1-2-3

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

I removed two screws and lifted out the ruined bottom. I set the new bottom in, but could not get the screws lined up so left them out. The bottom is heavy enough, it is not going anywhere. I am very grateful the part was available.

To find problem. I turn the power off to range. Removed top back panel. Removed switch and found there was a black spot on white covering of switch. So I order a switch. When it came I turn power off to range. Removed the top panel on back of range. Removed one wire at a time and put it on the new switch. Once all wires were on new switch. I removed old switch and installed new one. I then reinstalled the top back panel and turned the power back on. It is really easy to do. If you are not confident enough. Take a picture of the back of range before removing the panel. Then take a picture of the wires before you remove them.

Screwed up by not shutting breaker. Shorted out 3 switches. Thought i could get away without shutting breaker that was a costly error. No problem replacing the 3 switches and element switch. Took about 1/2 an hour.Always shut breaker before doing any electrical repairs.

removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.