CG34700ADV Crosley Range - Instructions

Note the position of the electrode on the side of the old burner cap. Turn the old burner cap one-eighth turn counter-clockwise to loosen and remove it. Raise the burner cap and disconnect the push-on connector wires from the ground and electrode. Clean the surface and connect the electrode and ground connector wires correctly to the new burner cap and place the burner cap back in the opening, positioning the electrode at the same orientation as it was with the old burner cap. Turn the cap one-eighth turn clockwise until the burner is snug. Turn on the burner control to test that the burner functions correctly. Make sure there is no smell of propane or gas when the burner is not in use which might indicate that the burner is not properly fitted snugly.

Put a new one in.

Well Got the part within 3 days. Followed instructions to install it and it worked. One thing you need to add to your kit is replacement mounting screws (2 nuts and bolts). It turns out that the original burner because of its age, had a hard time unscrewing it. The screws were very tight and ended up stripped. I ended up using a Dremel  tool to cut the screws off. By now the holes were a little bigger than original so I had to put it back together with a nut and bolt that would fit the small hole. But overall this was my first repair and I would definitely order from you again. Your site's part search and documentation with video clarified it wonderfully. Great service and site!

Barry

TOOK OVEN BOTTOM APART AND LOSSENED OLD IGNITERTHEN WENT TO BACK OF OVEN TOOK BACK OFF DISCONETED OLD IGNITER PULLED THE NEW THUR AND CONNECTED PUT BACK ON THEN ATTACHED FROM THE FRONT PUT OVEN BACK TOGATHER THEN TURNED OVEN ON IT WORKED I DID IT MYSELF I AM 64 YEAR OLD WOMEN

Punched out broken screw. Drilled out damaged threads to same size as igniter mounting holes. I used nuts, bolts and lock washers to mount igniter. Would have been very easy if mounting screws had come out. Video very helpful.

The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in place! Simple!

I was pleased with how the job went.
It took longer than expected because I am not really a "do it yourselfer", but I studied the door and reread how others managed the repair several times.
There were more screws than mentioned here.
Someone said 10 screws but there were 12.
In the end I was pleased and surprised how simple the job was, but recommend others read carefully what others have written. I didn't but learned one must.

I used a pipe wrench to turn the old burner off and removed the crumbling washer underneath- no need to replace this. I took off the 2 wires, crimped them onto the new burner, twisted it back into place and presto- all fixed!

The repair was a no brainer - twist to release the old burner - disconnect the spark wires. connect the spark wires on the new unit - drop it in and twist to lock - about 2 minute job

Accessed igniter removed 2screws holding it.unpluged igniter installed new one.

replaced heat sensor

The ignitor is held on by two screws which were rusted in place. When I tried to remove them, the screws became stripped and had to be cut off.

Once the part was free, the rest of the repair went quickly . At that point:
- Pull the element leads enough to get to the plastic connector
- Disconnect the old part
- Connect the new part
- Re-attach to the bracket with new screws.

I researched the stories on Partsselect, and it looked like this would be a simple repair. Fortunately, it was more simple than I'd thought. We bought the house (and stove) used, and the ignitor apparently had been replaced before, because the part was an EXACT replacement for the old one. I simply unscrewed the two screws holding the old ignitor onto the bracket/burner, pulled the wiring from the back of the oven through the insulation, disconnected the snap connector, reattached the new one. Then I pushed the wiring back through the insulation and added some additional insulation (provided with the part), making sure all extra length was pushed into the insulation. Reattached with two screws using a nut driver, replaced the bottom pan in the oven, slid the door back on its two hinges and started it up. Works perfectly. Thanks Partselect. You guys are great and I had the replacement my mail in about 5 working days!

Turn off the water source and unplug freezer. Remove copper tube and then remove valve from back of refrigerator. Disconnect plastic tube and power connection. Mark power connection plug top with a "T", this reminder helps with the new valve. Plug power and plastic tube into new valve and screw assembly back into refrigerator. Using a wrench, connect copper tube into valve. Restore water source and plug back in in freezer. Within a couple hours, ice production was back.
Like the other repair stories (that helped me), this job was very easy.

took out both racks and under tray at bottom of stove no tools required.
used a nut driver to remove both screws holding ignighter in place ,pulled wires up gentily and remove from standard clip by pushing ends in.
clip new ignighter in place push wires down again and install 2 screws . put all back together and it works like new .