CGW3D6CSVK Crosley Range - Instructions

removed racks, bottom plate. removed screws with a little bit of help from cooking spray. Unclipped old ignitor clipped in new ignitor, used old screws, and inserted insulation replaced racks, bottom shelf. Turn on oven and worked, been using it for about a week now. PS. ordered on monday morning arrived wednesday afternoon.

With a little adjustment to the mount the part went in ok. Checked the oven works like new; well better than new.

First I unpuged the Range. Then I removed all racks and bottom tray of oven.
The Ignitor is located at back of oven, paralelle to the gas bar. I removed the 2 screws holding the ignitor and unpluged the wires. Then I put on the new ignitor, perfect fit, replaced the 2 screws and pluged in the wires , then pluged in the range. I turned the oven on and it lit in about 10 seconds.
Thank you PartSelect for having such a wide range of range & oven parts . no one should have to pay a service tech. to fix most problems, as long as we have a GREAT SITE LIKE THIS ONE.
p.s. You guy also had one of the lowest prices , my part arrived ahead of schedule .
THANKS A LOT !

Removed oven door (easy it lifted right off) and remove oven bottom (also easy, no tools). removed two screws holding igniter and unplug old igniter from power. Re-attached new igniter and re-assembled oven.

Parts came very quickly from PartSelect. Good service.

Removed 7 screws on sides and one on top of stove. Replaced both springs (only one was broken but did both). Took around 15 to 30 minutes from start to finish.Fastest shipping in history during holidays without paying anything extra.

very easy

To get to the switch I had to remove the knobs and the front panel of the burner valves. There were some dozen screws, top and bottom holding the panel in-place.
The switch slid off the burner valve stem easily but removing the wires I had to pull with the pliers. There seamed not to be a wire release that I could see.
Replacing the wires was no problem. They slid into place by just pushing them in. Assembly was the reverse.

first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.

Before I give procedure steps, please note the following observations that I had.
a)If AC power is plugged in and an electrical terminal touches the frame, the resulting arc may require that you reset the GFCI or the circuit breaker.
b)The clock failed to run until it was properly mounted (including the back cover in place).
c)Movement of wires can cause them to work loose at EITHER end of the wire.
d)Attempting to operate the clock, Start and Stop knobs may extremely difficult or otherwise ineffective unless it is properly mounted. Fully depressing these knobs / shafts is difficult.

The numbered steps below are how I would do it correctly based on what i learned.
1)I unplugged gas range power cord.
2)Re-positioned range to access the back without damaging the flexible gas supply line.
3)Removed the rear cover (#2 Philips) behind the timer.
4)Verified no voltages present
5)Judged that the front cover glass needed removal - removed timer knobs and front glass cover
6)Removed existing clock timer by using a WIDE flat blade screwdriver to depress the rear of each clip and pushing the time our the front. Old part has damaged gears and one axle end out of position.
7)Fed old timer back through the opening to the rear to assist with transfer of wires.
8)With the assistance of a helper, transferred the wires one at a time from the old to the new timer.
9)Fed new timer back through the opening to the front; aligned and snapped into place.
10)Replaced front glass and knobs.
11)Plugged in AC cord (first did inspection for snug connections and potential shorts).
12)Tested buzzer feature of the timer. Unexpected that the buzzer was intermittent.
13)Unplugged power cord. Found & tightened loose connection - not at timer but other end of one of the timer wires at the chassis connection strip.
14)Reinstalled the metal back cover & plugged in the AC cord.
15)Set the timer start and stop times to one hour before present time. (Knobs need to be depressed.)
16)Set clock to present time by depressing the knob IN and rotating it clockwise to the correct time. As clock is manually advanced to the timer start and stop times, verified that each knob popped out. The hand on the clock for the timer moves also, but when you release the knob pressure, the knob pops out and then you set the timer past the buzzing to zero.
18)I put the oven through a self-cleaning cycle. This uses the new timer; starts when the START button pups out and stops when the STOP button pops out. Of course there are other controls you need to manipulate for the self-cleaning cycle i.e. CLEAN settings and the door lock.

I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured with the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to fully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!

Slid two latches at rear of bottom oven pan toward door, pulled pan up at rear of oven and removed. Igniter exposed, removed two self-tapping screws with nutdriver, pulled wires surrounded by insulation up out of hole in ovenfloor an unsnapped plastic connector wired to old igniter. screwed new igniter to bracket, reconnected wires, pushed connectors into hole and shoved new insulation around wires, fitted bottom pan and turned on oven. Works better than new, Thanks PARTSELECT.

If you watched the video on installing the part it IS that easy. The connector piece matched exactly with what my oven already had so it was as simple as disconnecting the old piece and plugging in the new piece. There was no hidden challenges or obstacles to overcome. The oven works perfectly fine there was a slight smell when I first turned on the oven but I am attributing that to a new part. The smell did go away. I am 24 years old and a female who has limited knowledge in electrical/oven work.

TOOK OVEN BOTTOM APART AND LOSSENED OLD IGNITERTHEN WENT TO BACK OF OVEN TOOK BACK OFF DISCONETED OLD IGNITER PULLED THE NEW THUR AND CONNECTED PUT BACK ON THEN ATTACHED FROM THE FRONT PUT OVEN BACK TOGATHER THEN TURNED OVEN ON IT WORKED I DID IT MYSELF I AM 64 YEAR OLD WOMEN