CC3872XVW Crosley Range - Instructions

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.

* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.

* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridge base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.

* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.

* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.

* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.

* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.

* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.

I Lifted the oven door from the hinges and removed all the screws to get to the broken glass pane, since the oven door is in layers I taped the screws close to where they belonged, so that I could screw everything together again in the right order..
The last time this happened to me(!!) I brought the door to a repair man and hadto pay 200 dollars , I saved 150 Dollars doing it myself!

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Removed the two screws that held the element in place and then pulled off the element from the connectors. Slipped the new connectors on. Tested the oven - Baked some blackberry cobbler!

Removed two screws from back of oven ,pulled apart old coil from wires, inserted new coil into the small metal pieces, pushed back and screws replaced. Really easy , anyone can do. Oh, I am 70 years old so probably people younger could do more quickly.

We bought the replacement Ceramic plug and wires, and opened up the jennair cooktop piece and rewired the NEW coil guide into the system. It works great.

I followed peoples instructions here, and it was not very difficult.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light assembly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.

With the back removed, replacing the lamp receptacle is straight-forward. Likewise, the door gasket is very easy. However, in order to replace the hinges, you have to remove the burner glass top (screws underneath the front lip), and inner and outer side panels. Also the supplied hinges mounting holes were not threaded so I had to use my own bolts, lock-washers and nuts in order to attach them. Total time, including a bit of cleaning, was 5 hours.

Unplug the 220 cord..remove rear metal back ( 7-8 Ph/screws)... disconnect the red & yellow connectors from the back of the lower element. Remove-the-lift-off Oven door. Remove the two Ph/screws (one on either end of the element) At the very rear of the oven. Install the new element and reverse the about to reassemble.

Removed two screws and disconnected the element. Reconnected the new element and reinstalled the screws

Unplugged the range. Took our the oven shelves. Unscrewed the bars holding the broken bake element to the back of the oven wall. Gently pulled out the wiring to which the bake element is attached. Slipped the ends of the broken bake element off the ending on the wiring. Then slipped the ends of the new bake element over the ends on the wiring. Then pushed the wiring with attached bake element back into their position behind the oven wall and attached the bars holding the bake element to the back of the oven wall. This is really easy because it is exactly like the on-line video, for I am a 75 year old female with little technical experience.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.