CG34300ADW Crosley Range - Instructions

ordered new replacement oven igniter kit and also felt it was a good opportunity to change the oven temperature sensor so also ordered short oven sensor kit. both parts fit as described as original replacements with very little work involved. oven worked properly good well done and a big saving on a service call repair or new range.

using the diagram shown on line Looked up the ignition module and ordered it by phone. Received it the next day and installed it within the hour. Previously I had called the repairman and he said it would be a couple of weeks before he could look at it and a service call was $75 plus parts..I fixed it for the cost of the module $34. I am very satisfied.

removed old socket and replaced.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.

New parts matched up perfectly. Undid screws holding old igniter, hardest part of procedure because one screw was frozen and broke off. Pulled stove out and new igniter"s connector was identical. Pushed stove back into place and it lighted on the first try.

It looked like an easy fix. the igniter had a plastic clip. A simple R&R. Removed old igniter from its mount, removed plate to get access to wires, removed insulation. Tried to pull the old wires out of its location. It was hung up and I spent 1/2 hr. trying to free it. No go. I thought I'd have to remove oven from its cabinet. I removed six screws and it would not come forward. I felt the under side of the oven thru lower door of cabinet and found out that was where gas was connected. No way was I disconnecting the gas. Pushed oven back in, reinstalled screws and decided to cut old wires and splice in the new igniter. WENT BACK AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Supplied were 4 ceramic wire nuts. Then the light bulb went on! OKAY! I got a marker and marked the top wire on the old igniter to identify it after I cut the wires as close to the back of the old igniter as I could with a pair of side cutters. I then cut the wires as close as I could to the plastic clip on the new igniter. Striped off 3/8 in. from all wire ends and spliced the wires together using the wire nuts. I stuffed the wires as far as possible back into the hole they came from, replaced all old and some new insulation into the hole. The supplied cover would not work, screw holes would not line up and would have fit poorly. I reused the old hole cover. Screwed new igniter to its mount. Turned on the oven and thought I screwed up. I waited about 30 seconds before I saw it start to glow. WHEW! I got it right! After a few more seconds, the gas came on and the oven burner ignited. The really hard part was putting the oven door back on its mount. That door was heavy and wouldn't line up on the first try.......
Maybe if I read the instructions thoroughly the first time before I started, I could have cut my time in half and saved a lot of cussin'. CUTTING THE WIRES WAS AN "OPTION"! That's why they supplied the ceramic wire nuts!....... Dinner is in the oven right now. Smells good!

I first removed oven racks.then I removed bottom of oven by sliding locks,then lifting out bottom.Next I removed screw holding e. control cove,then removed cover.Igniter plug was exposed,I then unpluged egniter. I next removed 2 screws holding burner and igniter .I removed igniter and burner as a unit. removed 1 screw from igniter,and replaced igniter on burner.Then assembled every thing in reverse order,and tested Oven worked perfectly.

This was very easy and pretty fast to do and its working great...all for $40 bucks ! you can do this...trust me!

The ignitor heated up and the broiler worked but not the bake mode. Repaired per instructions

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

Removed all the racks from inside the oven, unscrewed the 6 screws that held it into the cabinet, pulled it out and sat it on the floor in front of the cabinet. Removed the oven sensor from the inside of the oven after disconnecting the wire harness from the rear right exterior of the oven. Installed new sensor from inside (2screws), plugged it into the harness in the back and reinstalled oven in the cabinet.

Replaced the water valve. I knew that the ice maker was working by watching the movement. It was not getting water to it, s I figured it was the electric water valve and sure enough, that fixed the problem.

Unplugged the old temp sensor at the back of the stove. From the inside I removed the 2 retaining screws. I taped a string to the old wire and pulled it through so I could pull the new harness through on the new sensor. When the new sensor arrived I installed it in reverse order. Easy peasy. Works great!!!!

Replaced the igniter by removing 2 screws, pulling on the wires to pull the connector in from the back thru the oval opening, screwing in the the new element, reconnecting the wires, pushing the connector back and that did it.

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

Removing the old oven bottom was easy...as it was already outside of its slots. Installing the new one was pretty easy. I placed the oven bottom in the front slots first...then the rear slots...no tools necessary.