CRE3860GWBB Crosley Range - Instructions

moved the range out to access back
removed 5 screws from back panel
removed 1 screw from thermostat installed new one
replaced screws, done in 20 minutes
problem solved

Took 5 screws off back of stove, removed 2 screws from control board, replaced board, put back together, make sure you un plug stove before removing back.

purchased a square bit and removed screws easily and disconnected it from the wiring and pushed in the new element secured screw and it was back to baking.

Unplug the stove or disconnect at the breaker. Open the oven and remove the bake racks. Using a nut driver (or Phillips Screwdriver) remove the screws (one per side) that secure the bake element. Place them in a safe/secure place outside of the oven. Carefully pull straight back on the element until about 3 inches of the wire, that connects to the element, is exposed. Carefully unplug the wire from each element (make sure that the wire does not pull back into the oven insulation. I placed a small metal clip on each wire). Remove the old element and plug the new one in. Put everything back in the exact same way you took the old one out. Power the oven up and preheat your oven. Monitor this - should be no problem at all. Very simple process. My first attempt at this and it was very easy.

I just pulled the old ones out of the sockets, cleaned underneath, and replaced with new ones. No-brainer.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Watched the video

Remove two back knurled screws, lift out old bottom, screw in new bottom panel. Removal of oven door (two flip out handles at hinge( makes this a little easier. Our oven did not need any other dis-assembly.

my husband did the repair.He unplugged the stove removed the element and installed the new element.plugged the stove in and checked operation of element.Stove works great

Went well, and working thank you ??

I followed the video on the website. The probe is on back of the oven. Just unplug part and replace. That was not our fix all though as I later found that the igniter was not working. The igniter is also an easy fix but you access it through the front of the oven. Also an easy swap.

Oven is working great now.

Our issues kind of fell between two of the descriptions so I went with high percentage cheaper fix first.

If your oven is intermittingly getting hot or to temperature of 100, it is probably the igniter.

Have used PartsSelect for Washing Machine, Dryer, Refridgerator and now the Range. Super easy to figure out needed parts and videos walk you through the repair.

Thanks

The broil element and range were both working so I removed the bake element to test for continuity. Use a 1/4” socket or wrench to remove the two screws holding the bake element to the rear wall of the inside of the oven. Pull the ends of the element out of their recesses taking care not to lose a wire inside the back panel of the oven. Pull the wires off the element ends. You should be able to do this by hand; use a flathead screwdriver for a little prying if necessary. Visually inspect the element for physical damage. If you don’t see any, test the element with an ohmmeter or multimeter. If it reads anything other than 0 ohms (continuity), your element is defective. Installation process is reverse of removal.

Using a socket set and Robertson #3 (smallest) driver head,with the breaker shut off before working I removed the old element and disconnected the old element from the wire connections.I then installed the new element by connecting the terminals to the wire connection in the range before screwing the old retaining clips to the back of the oven compartment wall.Then I flipped the breaker switch back on and turned on the oven dial to 425 degrees to see the element heat up and glow red affirming the success of the repair.Total time to repair about 15 minutes.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

After a brief discussion with CS about the electric stove part was shipped it arrived and I proceeded to install I found it needed to be installed sideways not up & down like the old one. The terminals did not line up so I put the black lead first and the purple lead last in doing that I burned out the switch??? was not easy to install as the video showed his switch matched each wire? My installation was sideways??