ESF33002L (P1142612NL) Caloric Range - Instructions

Turned off stove breaker. Unscrewed burner from stove top, took out burner and spill pan. Lifted top of stove, cut the wire as instructed and put all parts together as instructed. Placed everything back together as instructed. I did it myself!

Ordered wrong part at first caused me to blow out two elements. With the help of PartSelect I was able to get the right surface block terminal and replaced both of them, then found out I had a bad switch, they got the switch within 2 days I had my stove working good again. Thanks to PartSelect. Also watched the video which was very helpful ML

After turning off circuit breaker to the stove, I removed all surface units , removed the 4 screws holding the top and lifted up. The plug in was burned out (the wire was burned). Look at the old plug-in so as to be able to match the new one and insert the pre- crimped end of wires into the block and the block into the metal holder that matches your old one. (The kit comes with 2 different metal holders)After this, cut out the old wires and wire nut the new wires with the stove wires. Put shrink wrap protector on the wire nuts and heat to shrink it tight.attach the block to the stove top and wa la its done. Very easy.

I removed the burner element, then the drip pan. I took off the old block. Then I had to strip the old wires. Then I put on the heat sleeve, then attached the new wires to the old wires with nuts. Put heat sleeve over this and heated with lighter. Then put everything back together.

Unscrewed screw holding bracket. Used side cutters to cut wires. Replaced the bracket, put the shrink wrap on wires, twisted wires together and held with wire caps. Shrunk the wrap with lighter. I'm a 67 year old female.. No problems.

I removed the entire burner assembly to avoid having to turn things off at the breaker - the whole assembly can be removed completely from the stove I had. Once it was out and disassembled, the toughest part was putting the new wires into the new block correctly. Once that was done, I had to select the right mounting bracket - there were 2 in the kit. Easy, just attention to detail. The rest of the instructions were easy to follow, re-doing the wires. The re-assembly was trivial, and it worked first time!

After carefully inspecting existing burner receptacles, I unscrewed them, raised and propped stove top. Determined which bracket to use from new kit and proceeded to cut and strip wires, twist ends together with supplied ceramic caps and heated shrink wrap on that junction. Works great. BTW got parts in 2 days in great shape and good directions.

I read instructions and hints online. Then, I pulled the range out from between the cabinets and unplugged it (carefully). I used a small Philips head screwdriver to remove the 10 metal screws holding the large metal sheet on the back of the oven. Then I removed the 4 screws holding on the metal sheet on the upper level of the back of the range since it had to be removed to move back the big sheet metal away from the back. The large metal sheet has the power cord threaded through it on the bottom and I left that in place. I then removed the oven door by lifting it up off the hinges after I removed the screw on each side that held the door on the hinges. The door is quite heavy for a girl. I unscrewed the plate at the back of the broiler element, unhooked it from the hangers, and carefully pulled the connectors apart from the oven wiring and the dead broiler element. (Being completely unfamiliar with this kind of connector it took me some time to figure out they slid apart.) Following advice online I had used electrical tape to tape down the wires so they wouldn't slip backwards out of the oven. The new broiler element connectors slid smoothly and easily into the oven wires. I removed the electrical tape I had used as temporary holders, hung the element on the previous wire slings and removed the new wire slings for a backup. I screwed back the plate on the new element into the back of the oven wall. I used the part number orientation on the element to make certain I had it right side up. If I have to do this again it will be easy and take very little time. My biggest problem was getting the oven door back on because it was heavy for me and I was too short to be able to see what I was doing as I repeatedly tried to get the oven door and hinges aligned. Eventually the door was back on and screwed down. Everything that had been unscrewed was put back in place and screwed down tightly. The oven and broiler are working perfectly.

by myself

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

I had no trouble replacing the Broiler heating element, total time 30 minutes. Just had to pull the range out to unplug it and remove the back sheild of the range, then remove the two push on electrical connections. Then removed one screw holding the element to the inside of the oven, replaced with the new element, attached the connections, but the back sheild back on and it was done.

Description of the element indicated that it would work for the oven burner. However, it obviously was meant for the broiler element. I had to remove the thin metal piece with the attachment holes in it (the holes didn't match the holes in the back of the oven). To install I had to drill two holes in the remaining attachment flange to match the holes on the back of the oven. Then I made three metal supports out of sheet metal to hold the element up approximately 1 1/2" off of the bottom of the oven. Just thankful to find one that I could make work. Oven works fine now. LF

The repair was simple, two screws and plug in and it was done.

Cut the old wires off, removed the screw holding the clamp, installed the new parts. Problems I encountered were the wire nuts. They were too small for the wire gage of the replacement part and the original oven. I had larger wire nuts in my workshop. Also, why so many extra parts like the shrink wrap tubing, two metal clamps to hold the socket, etc.

burner was shorting out replaced part works great