EST3102W-P1130629NW Caloric Range - Instructions

Received part after one working day and was installed
in five minutes.. Would recommend as a do it your self
project with the support of PartSelect.com

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

The lower element had burned out but in the process, it developed a short from line to neutral. Since the short was located about 3/4 of the total length from the one hot leg (L1) and the other hot leg (L2) was the relay controlled leg, there was a current path that allowed the element to heat even with L2 disconnected by the relay. Actually replacing the element was easy, just remove the back cover(s) and the element mounting screws (2) inside the oven cavity and the new unit slides into place. Reconnect the two wires to the new element and replace the back covers. Back in business and the cookies are coming out perfectly!

removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!

Indicators showed broiler should be working so basically made a guess that the element was bad and replaced it. Turned off circuit breaker and removed mounting screw and unplugged terminal ends of the element and replaced with new one. Switched circuit breaker on and turned on broiler and my repair was a success.

just plugged it in!

Turned power off! Removed two mounting screws, disconected two slip on wire terminals from heating element. Removed Element from oven. Took about 10 minutes.
Part came in two days. Re installed heating elemet by pushing on the two slip on wire terminals and re installing the two mountint screws. Took about 10 more minutes.
We have been retired for 17 years. Wish all my "Honeydew jobs were this easy!

I turned off the breaker and unscrewed the element. Removed the plug connection and once I got the correct part, we plugged it in, screwed it back into the oven wall and done! I am a single female and was able to replace the heating element in a short amount of time with assistance from my 16 year old son!! I was very surprised at how easy it was to repair. The key is to get the correct part the 1st time!

First, I unplugged the power cord from the receptacle. I then removed two philiphead screws that hold the element in place. I the pulled the element out about an inch and a half . I then disconnected the the two wires from the element. The I connected the replacement element and resecured it with the two mounting screws. I assured everything was correct and then I plugged in the power cord and turned the oven on low heat to give it a test. Everything workout just great. The part was just what I needed.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Plug the wires onto the new bake element and re-screw back into place.

I cut the power to the circuit. Removed the burner and then unscrewed the old aluminum plate attached to the range top cover. Opened the topcover to access the wires. I cut the two wires being sure that I left enough length. I then slipped the two new wires with the brass contacts into the new black plastic holder until it locked. Reattached the new metal plate to the range cover, fed the wires through and snapped the new plastic holder into the aluminum plate. Secured wire ends with the ceramic wire nuts. Total time about 30 minutes.

It was simple. I flipped the circuit breaker just in case, and then unscrewed the bracket for the old heatng element. Disconnected the two plugs, connected the plugs for the new element, and screwed the new bracket back in.
The saleslady assured me when I was purchasing it from PartSelect that it was pretty easy. That gave me the confidence, and she was telling the truth. I will purchase again from Part Select....although I hope I won't have to do so for a while.