RST399UL (P1132621N L) Caloric Range - Instructions

I read on this site about someone who had my same problem. He ordered and installed a new spark ignition module and after installation the stove worked fine. So I ordered a part # PS2034431 Spark Ignition Module for my Amana stove. I installed it, and it worked just fine, really for the first time since I bought the stove new. Oh well...
Taking the stove apart took a bit of study to find how to get it right, and the clothes pins were to keep the wires from slipping back through the stove top as I was putting it back on before actually hooking up the piezo units. The instructions that came with the spark igniter were pretty useless (not wrong, just useless), but carefull notes while taking the bad unit out and where each wire went made the replacement rather easy. The really tough part was removal of the burners - the small screws had deteriorated over the last 7 years, so I had to drill two of them out. I replaced all of them with stainless steel screws. This cost an hour of my time plus a trip to the hardware store.
But as I said... the stove now works fine really for the first time. Way to go, Amana!
I trust this igniter will last a lifetime.
And certainly, reading about the same problem I had and easily finding the part was a welcome treat on this site.

left side hinge was broken. I removed 2 screws to release the old hinge and replaced it with the new hinge.
Part select.com made it easy to pick out the part from the diagram supplied on the web site. After it was ordered it arrived 2 days later.

I removed the two screws and pryed out the old hinge. I then put in the new hinge. The new one fit well. I went to screw it in with the supplied screws. The screws not only did not fit the hole tapped in the hinge (too big, different tread) but both screws were different from each other. They were different sizes and different types all together. I tried re-using the screws from the originol hinge but they also did not fit. I then got my own self tapping machine screws and finished the job. This job should not have been that hard. If they had supplied the correct screws, It would have taken all of five minutes.

Had to take entire back panel off, to disconnect wiring. Once disconnected, removed two screws holding up igniter in oven. Pulled it through and removed from holder, Be careful new igniter very fragile. Reconnected, put panel back on, then turn on to verify, all went well, fully operational.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Repair can be done through the oven after removing the dip pan on top of the oven burner. The drip pan slids out - no tools needed. Remove 1 screw that holds the element close to the burner and 2 screws that hold the element cover to the stove. Remove bottom drawer and remove wire nuts from element wires. Reverse the process to install new element. Care must be taken to avoid damage to the element as it can be easily broken. I cut and stripped the wires coming from the stove valve as they were not in good shape after removing the wire nut.

I live in a small town in South East Colorado. We have just a Walmart and Sears and a few smaller hardware stores. I checked all of them to try to find this 25 1/2 inch Fluorescent Light Bulb, and nobody carried one. I would have had to drive 70 miles to find one. The Service of Partselect was wonderful and the bulb showed up in just 4 days. I was lost without this light. I have bought a few other items for my older appliances in the past from Partselect. com and was very happy with the service and how easy the web page is to navigate. .

Removed the door and old hinges and reinstalled the new hinges and added some screws to better support the door ( it was bending a little at the middle and the door would not shut all the way. Now it works fine.

I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).

* * * *
I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)

None of the surface burners (two Uni-burners) would light without using a match. I first ordered two replacement PS2089818 top burner spark electrodes. I replace one which was very easy - the electrode just clips into the burner - and I traced the wires down to the back bottom of the stove where I found they plugged into an ignition module. The new electrode didn't help, but since all four burners were out it made sense that the ignition module would be the problem and not the two separate electrodes. So I ordered a new ignition module. It plugged in easily with the terminals well marked like the original. I put the original electrode back in and all four burners now light properly with the desired "tic tic tic" sound with the knobs in the "high/light" position.

Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.

I first thought the burner was bad but after some
testing realized that the Spark Ignition Module was
faulty. You have to remove the screws from the four
burners to remove them and the stove top. Then it
is a fairly easy job to replace the module. Just be
careful to reconnect the wires in the correct places
that you removed them from the old module.

First, I unplugged power to the stove. Next, I removed the grills, ceramic burner discs, gas knobs, and glass plate (under the knobs). Next, I removed the 2 screws exposed by the control knobs. Next, I removed the 2 screws holding each burner assembly to the cook top. I then unplugged the wires attached to each burner assembly and set the assemblies aside. Now I was able to remove the top. Once removed, it was very easy to locate and remove the bracket holding the old sparking module. Then it was just a matter of removing the wires from the old module and attaching them to the new module... attaching the new bracket to the stove and then re-assemble the cook top. Honestly, this was a very simple repair... and probably took me longer to describe the steps than actually execute.

i read other stories and found after checking rotating heat switch with ohm meter found the igniter was the problem, pulled up on door and it came off, found bottom of oven pulled up and out, removed wing nut from deflector and two bolts and one wiring connector, just reversed removal to install new igniter and all complete, took about 20 minutes,

I took out the oven racks. There are 2 cross head screws and 1 screw with a hex head holding the igniter. Pulling out the igniter carefully and the wire nuts also came out. Replaced the wires using the existing wirenuts and slid the igniter into place. Replaced the 3 screws and DONE. Wish the igniters were a little cheaper as this is the third one to go weak. The new one draws about 3.2 amps while the old one only drew 2.85Amps, not enough to open the gas valve. Oven works Fine now. Thanks parts select for the rapid delivery.