EST387 Caloric Range - Instructions

I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...

Turned off 230 volt breaker to range,connected old wires to new element ,put back into place replaced the two mounting screws. Turned breaker back on and tested range.

First, I turned off the power to the house at the breaker box. Then I removed the broken heating element through the front oven door. I hoped this would work as it seemed from other reviews that some people pulled the oven out removed the back panel in order to access the element. I unscrewed the plate and then gently pulled the element out. I had a little trouble "unplugging" the element. When I tried pulling, it seemed they were stuck tight. Turns out you have to sort of jiggle the connectors and then they easily pull apart. Had I figured this out initially, the repair would have been under 15 minutes. Attaching the new element to the connectors, rethreading the wiring back into the holes, and then rescrewing on the back plate too the oven wall took just minutes. Easy peasy. So glad I spent $40 to fix rather then $500+ for a new oven!

First I removed the one screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

Removed burner and tray. Removed burner connector from stove top using screw driver.
Removed existing heat shrink and wirenuts.
Installed new connector - wire nuts and heat shrink. Used lighter to shrink.
Took 20 minutes.

First I lifted the cooktop out of the countertop & removed the screws so I could access under the burners.Then I cut the wires for the old plug-in block & then stripped the wires.Next I connected the new wires with the wire nuts & then used a lighter to shrink wrap the wire nuts.Then I screwed in the new block & re-installed the screws for the cooktop.I put in the new burner & it worked just like new.

Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received.
Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, connected the new wires, replaced the two screws and turned on the oven to test it. Easiest repair job I have ever done.

Removed old block , cut off wires , used new wire nuts, heat shrink , supplied with parts , job done lowered range top went fishing ...

Removed 2 phillips screws and pulled elements out 3 to 4 inches. One of the leads touched the housing and blew the circuit breaker, so don't forget to unplug or turn the breaker off! Simply slide clips off and install on new element. push back in place and reinstall 2 screws. Very simple.
P.S. element was delivered very fast!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

It was real easy. Removed two screws, pulled the element forward, removed to clip on wires, removed element and put the new element in place, replaced wires and screws, turned it on and up to temp. in no time. great service and quick delivery on getting the part.

replaced element

While trying to clean the oven, I decided to remove the lower heating element to make it easier. After removing the 2 screws on the bracket that holds the heating element in place, I pulled the heating element out only to short it out on the back of the oven and wreck the element. Luckly I was not injured or shocked, so if you need to do this, I recommend reading the owner's manual on how to property ground out the circuit first.

Anyways, to replace it, I just removed the lower panel on the back of the oven (roughly 10 screws). Installed the new element on the inside of the oven and screwed it into place. Then, connected the wires to the element from the back of the oven. Replaced the panel and turned the power back on.

In all, it took probably 15-20 minutes to fix and only cost me $37. I know that a minimum repair cost for this from Sears would have been $150, so definitely worth my time.

removed the screws disconnected the old one and connected the new one and put the screws back on it