ARHC7700WWP1142683NWW Amana Range - Instructions

I removed the two screws and pryed out the old hinge. I then put in the new hinge. The new one fit well. I went to screw it in with the supplied screws. The screws not only did not fit the hole tapped in the hinge (too big, different tread) but both screws were different from each other. They were different sizes and different types all together. I tried re-using the screws from the originol hinge but they also did not fit. I then got my own self tapping machine screws and finished the job. This job should not have been that hard. If they had supplied the correct screws, It would have taken all of five minutes.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Received part after one working day and was installed
in five minutes.. Would recommend as a do it your self
project with the support of PartSelect.com

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

The lower element had burned out but in the process, it developed a short from line to neutral. Since the short was located about 3/4 of the total length from the one hot leg (L1) and the other hot leg (L2) was the relay controlled leg, there was a current path that allowed the element to heat even with L2 disconnected by the relay. Actually replacing the element was easy, just remove the back cover(s) and the element mounting screws (2) inside the oven cavity and the new unit slides into place. Reconnect the two wires to the new element and replace the back covers. Back in business and the cookies are coming out perfectly!

Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.

Turned power off! Removed two mounting screws, disconected two slip on wire terminals from heating element. Removed Element from oven. Took about 10 minutes.
Part came in two days. Re installed heating elemet by pushing on the two slip on wire terminals and re installing the two mountint screws. Took about 10 more minutes.
We have been retired for 17 years. Wish all my "Honeydew jobs were this easy!

Removed old assembly, attached wires to new and inserted into space for same. Of course you must turn off the range circuit breaker. The part that took the most time was removing the old assembly. Once that was done, the rest took only a few minutes.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

First, I unplugged the power cord from the receptacle. I then removed two philiphead screws that hold the element in place. I the pulled the element out about an inch and a half . I then disconnected the the two wires from the element. The I connected the replacement element and resecured it with the two mounting screws. I assured everything was correct and then I plugged in the power cord and turned the oven on low heat to give it a test. Everything workout just great. The part was just what I needed.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Plug the wires onto the new bake element and re-screw back into place.

It was simple. I flipped the circuit breaker just in case, and then unscrewed the bracket for the old heatng element. Disconnected the two plugs, connected the plugs for the new element, and screwed the new bracket back in.
The saleslady assured me when I was purchasing it from PartSelect that it was pretty easy. That gave me the confidence, and she was telling the truth. I will purchase again from Part Select....although I hope I won't have to do so for a while.

Removed two screws securing heating element. Removed broken element and disconnected wires. Removed back panel of oven, unplugged from outlet, installed new element, attaching 2 screws. From back side of oven reattached 2 wires, replaced back panel and plugged in. Pretty simple!

had to slide the range out from the wall and pull the electrical plug, then using a nut driver ,I removed 9 screws from the back panel and removed the back panel to expose the bake element wiring, had to remove the three wires connecting the power cord to the range terminals a/c the back panel would not fully come off with these wires connected. i then pulled the 2 stake eyes from the element, unscrewed the 2 screws
securing the bake element from inside the stove and removed the element, re-installed the new element and screwed into place, attached the
stake eyes on the rear of the element and re-attached the power cord, put the back cover back on and plugged the range in., tested and the range functioned as intended.