AKT3650WW-10 Amana Range - Instructions

Shut off 220 volt power to range. Removed two screws for cooktop element access. Used needle-nose pliers to remove power (2) and control (2) lugs and wires. Remove defective cooking element module, replaced. Reverse steps for new unit.

I unplugged the stove and removed two screws on bottom of stove top (above oven door) one screw holding burner bracket in place. Took one wire off at a time and hooked to new burner, tightened all screws back down.

Turned off power, disconnected wires, cut tape on exhaust fan connection, removed cooktop from counter and removed glass top from assembly, removed screws on switch, switched wires from old switch and installed on new switch, reinstalled everything, restore power and checkout new switch positions. Everything worked.

Here is what I did with new switch (part#12002125) and it worked. Connect jumper to P1 and S1. Split the 2 red wires and put new spades on the ends, then put the red wire from left front switch on P2 and the other red wire from the right rear burner on 2. Blue goes to 4. Purple goes to 4A. Black goes to P1. Orange goes to S2.

Move stove away from wall to allow working on back of stove. Unplug stove. Remove metal cover from top rear of stove. Pull control knob off of control (front of stove) Remove 2 screws holding infinite control in place (front of stove) Replacement control not identical to original control, having more terminal lugs and different physical arrangement. I used the terminal letters as a guide for placement of wires. The letters were not exactly the same, but close enough. Re-attach control to stove with 2 screws. Re-attach back metal panel to stove. Shaft on replacement control is smaller diameter and different shape from original, so I removed ribs from inside of control knob hole and then squirted a small amount of hot glue into the hole. Smearing a small amount of cooking oil onto shaft of replacent control I then slid the control knob onto the control shaft, holding it in place until the glue cooled and set. Plug stove back in, and return stove to its position next to the wall.

Disconnect the power.took the cooktop off the range. Turned it over. Removed the underside plate. Disconnected the bad element. Pluged inthe new element. Replaced the under plate. Reconnected the range to the stovetop .put cooktop in place. Reattached screws. Turned on power. Worked perfectly.

The repair was very easy. It took me less than ten minutes. There were only five screws including two to hold heat element that I have to unscrew and transferred the old clip the screw onto new heat element.

Repair video was very helpful. I have removed the screws on both sides of the appliance under the surface plate, in the front. The Owen door has to be open for that. Then I have pulled the surface plate for a little space to disconnect the two connectors. Turned the surface plate over on the kitchen table, removed the 6 screws. Turned the burners assembly over and removed the small burner by disengaging the two clips. I have removed the 2 clops from the burned burner and assembled it to the new burner. I have placed the burner and engaged the 2 clips with a crownose players. I have removed one electrical connecter at a time and connected to the new burner. I have turned over the assembly over the glass plate and assembled the back cover with 6 screws. Put the surface plate on the range and connected the 2 connectors, pushed back, lined it up with the 2 screw holes in front of the range on bot sides and put the 2 screws in and Finished.

1. I ordered a replacement heater element from Parts Select, which arrived in just 3 days at my home. 2. I turned off the main circuit breaker to the range. 3. There are two small sheet metal screws inside the top left and right side of the oven door frame which need to be removed first in order to lift and remove the burner top from the range. 4. After lifting and pulling the burner top toward me about 6 inches, I unplugged the left and right burner assembly wiring harness connectors. 5. I lifted the burner top assembly off the stove and turned it upside down an a table. 6. There are six sheet metal screws that need to be removed to allow the sheet metal panel holding the heater assemblies to be lifted off and then also set upside down on a table top. All five burner elements are now visible. 7. Disconnect the slip-on electrical connectors to the specific heater assembly that is defective. 8. Unscrew the three small sheet metal screws from the three spring clips that support the heater assembly on the sheet metal panel; re-attach the spring clips to the new heater assembly. NOTE: Either memorize or record the position numbers that are cast into the ceramic housing of the burner to replace the new burner in exactly the same position. 9. Insert the three spring clips back into the sheet metal panel where the old, defective burner assembly had been removed. 10. Re-connect the slip-on wire clips to the new heater assembly in the same position as they were removed from the defective heater assembly. 11. Turn over the sheet metal panel with the burner assemblies attached and replace the sheet metal screws holding the panel to the stove top. 12. Turn over the stove top assembly and set back onto the range allowing space to reach to the back and re-connect the polarized connectors to the left and right side burners. 13. Slide the stove top back to the rear and carefully lower the front edge back down with the two metal tabs inserted back into the oven door frame. 14. Re-install the two sheet metal screws that hold down the stove top. 15. Turn on the main circuit breaker to the range. 16. Carefully test the new heater assembly by turning the range control knob to LO heat and watch for the stove top burner to momentarily turn red with heat. 17. Turn off the range control knob. 18. You are finished. It was a very easy installation.

Removed the two screws, on both sides of the oven wall corner. Gently lift the front end of the glass top and pull towards me and disconnect the two electrical sockets. Carried the glass top assembly on the kitchen table and turned upside down. Removed the six screws. Removed the assembly from the glass top. Turn the top burners assembly over and disengaged the two clips of the burned out burner from the assembly plate. Transferred the two clips to the new burner on the exact locations like the old ones were. I have placed the new burner on the location and snapped the clips on the slots. Removed the connectors one piece at a time and connected to the new burner. Reversed the previous disassembly and all was done Works like a charm. Thank you all for assisting me in providing the necessary parts and video instructions. It was a lot cheaper than to buy a new range.

Thanks to the highest rated user comment and following his instructions the switch exchange was easy. The supplied instructions were of little to no help and confusing. The hardest part was getting to the two side top Phillips screws because the granite counter top was in the way necessitating raising the stove till the screw heads were exposed. Once raised the front cover was easily removed after undoing six screws. The cook top did not need to be removed. Either of the supplied wires would work and only one of the two was needed. The replacement switch performed far better than the original.

Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.

i did fine