ART6113LLP1143688NLL Amana Range - Instructions

shut off circut breaker. un pluged stove removed back panel disconected 2 wires on element. removed 1 screw that holds element in place pull out old element put in new reassemble

First removed 2 screws holding in element housing at the back of the oven. Pulled element out and disconnected wire leads from the the element connection points. Reconnected leads from new element, pushed back into the back of oven and rescrewed into the oven housing. Done, very easy.

The complete top section had to be lifted up and the broken section removed. The bottom inside screw was difficult to complete as the area to work in is so small. However, all was completed and the stove now looks finished.

This is a rental unit, and I suspect that someone was mad at something and took it out on the stove.

r & r hinge. very poor pivot pin which leads to frequent replacement of hinge assembly, cheaply made, weak spot is hinge pin pivot rivet.

The repair was simple, two screws and plug in and it was done.

1. waited unsuccessfully for heat (one hour) 2. realized the bottom element wasn't working (one minute) 3. found part on-line from pictures (five minutes) 4. ordered part (one minute) 5. received part (36 hours) 6. installed part (five minutes) 7. "THAT'S how you fix the oven" look to husband (1-2 years)

The repair was very easy. It took me less than ten minutes. There were only five screws including two to hold heat element that I have to unscrew and transferred the old clip the screw onto new heat element.

Unscrewed 2 screws holding the bracket on the back of the stove and disconnected the wires from the two clips. Removed back element, connected new elements & replaced screws to back inside wall of oven. Works like brand new!!

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

Description of the element indicated that it would work for the oven burner. However, it obviously was meant for the broiler element. I had to remove the thin metal piece with the attachment holes in it (the holes didn't match the holes in the back of the oven). To install I had to drill two holes in the remaining attachment flange to match the holes on the back of the oven. Then I made three metal supports out of sheet metal to hold the element up approximately 1 1/2" off of the bottom of the oven. Just thankful to find one that I could make work. Oven works fine now. LF

Move stove away from wall to allow working on back of stove. Unplug stove. Remove metal cover from top rear of stove. Pull control knob off of control (front of stove) Remove 2 screws holding infinite control in place (front of stove) Replacement control not identical to original control, having more terminal lugs and different physical arrangement. I used the terminal letters as a guide for placement of wires. The letters were not exactly the same, but close enough. Re-attach control to stove with 2 screws. Re-attach back metal panel to stove. Shaft on replacement control is smaller diameter and different shape from original, so I removed ribs from inside of control knob hole and then squirted a small amount of hot glue into the hole. Smearing a small amount of cooking oil onto shaft of replacent control I then slid the control knob onto the control shaft, holding it in place until the glue cooled and set. Plug stove back in, and return stove to its position next to the wall.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

I read instructions and hints online. Then, I pulled the range out from between the cabinets and unplugged it (carefully). I used a small Philips head screwdriver to remove the 10 metal screws holding the large metal sheet on the back of the oven. Then I removed the 4 screws holding on the metal sheet on the upper level of the back of the range since it had to be removed to move back the big sheet metal away from the back. The large metal sheet has the power cord threaded through it on the bottom and I left that in place. I then removed the oven door by lifting it up off the hinges after I removed the screw on each side that held the door on the hinges. The door is quite heavy for a girl. I unscrewed the plate at the back of the broiler element, unhooked it from the hangers, and carefully pulled the connectors apart from the oven wiring and the dead broiler element. (Being completely unfamiliar with this kind of connector it took me some time to figure out they slid apart.) Following advice online I had used electrical tape to tape down the wires so they wouldn't slip backwards out of the oven. The new broiler element connectors slid smoothly and easily into the oven wires. I removed the electrical tape I had used as temporary holders, hung the element on the previous wire slings and removed the new wire slings for a backup. I screwed back the plate on the new element into the back of the oven wall. I used the part number orientation on the element to make certain I had it right side up. If I have to do this again it will be easy and take very little time. My biggest problem was getting the oven door back on because it was heavy for me and I was too short to be able to see what I was doing as I repeatedly tried to get the oven door and hinges aligned. Eventually the door was back on and screwed down. Everything that had been unscrewed was put back in place and screwed down tightly. The oven and broiler are working perfectly.