ART6110LLP1143449NLL Amana Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, connected the new wires, replaced the two screws and turned on the oven to test it. Easiest repair job I have ever done.

Removed 2 phillips screws and pulled elements out 3 to 4 inches. One of the leads touched the housing and blew the circuit breaker, so don't forget to unplug or turn the breaker off! Simply slide clips off and install on new element. push back in place and reinstall 2 screws. Very simple.
P.S. element was delivered very fast!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

While trying to clean the oven, I decided to remove the lower heating element to make it easier. After removing the 2 screws on the bracket that holds the heating element in place, I pulled the heating element out only to short it out on the back of the oven and wreck the element. Luckly I was not injured or shocked, so if you need to do this, I recommend reading the owner's manual on how to property ground out the circuit first.

Anyways, to replace it, I just removed the lower panel on the back of the oven (roughly 10 screws). Installed the new element on the inside of the oven and screwed it into place. Then, connected the wires to the element from the back of the oven. Replaced the panel and turned the power back on.

In all, it took probably 15-20 minutes to fix and only cost me $37. I know that a minimum repair cost for this from Sears would have been $150, so definitely worth my time.

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

shut off circut breaker. un pluged stove removed back panel disconected 2 wires on element. removed 1 screw that holds element in place pull out old element put in new reassemble

Two screws in the oven removed the old part and the wires unplugged from the unit. When the new part came in , it was plug and play. Plugged the wires into the new part, put part into holes in oven and screwed the screws back in place and we were ready to go. The part was here in record time. We ordered it on Sunday, it shipped out on Monday, it arrived on Tuesday and we were back in operation! Thanks for a really smooth repair experience!

Al lI had to do remove the oh swith & attach th e new on & push in place
It took about 5 min. to turn off the electric & to turn it back on.
Glen V

r & r hinge. very poor pivot pin which leads to frequent replacement of hinge assembly, cheaply made, weak spot is hinge pin pivot rivet.

First removed 2 screws holding in element housing at the back of the oven. Pulled element out and disconnected wire leads from the the element connection points. Reconnected leads from new element, pushed back into the back of oven and rescrewed into the oven housing. Done, very easy.

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

Discriptions provided by others in this section made it easy and there is little additional insight I can add. The part was delivered the next day. I don't reply to these requests for comments, as providing what I paid for is the expectation. But, this outfit did a good job.

Ordered hinge, went to Sears bought some tools to finish manufacturing the hinge, tapped out the screw hole, installed the hinge.

I read instructions and hints online. Then, I pulled the range out from between the cabinets and unplugged it (carefully). I used a small Philips head screwdriver to remove the 10 metal screws holding the large metal sheet on the back of the oven. Then I removed the 4 screws holding on the metal sheet on the upper level of the back of the range since it had to be removed to move back the big sheet metal away from the back. The large metal sheet has the power cord threaded through it on the bottom and I left that in place. I then removed the oven door by lifting it up off the hinges after I removed the screw on each side that held the door on the hinges. The door is quite heavy for a girl. I unscrewed the plate at the back of the broiler element, unhooked it from the hangers, and carefully pulled the connectors apart from the oven wiring and the dead broiler element. (Being completely unfamiliar with this kind of connector it took me some time to figure out they slid apart.) Following advice online I had used electrical tape to tape down the wires so they wouldn't slip backwards out of the oven. The new broiler element connectors slid smoothly and easily into the oven wires. I removed the electrical tape I had used as temporary holders, hung the element on the previous wire slings and removed the new wire slings for a backup. I screwed back the plate on the new element into the back of the oven wall. I used the part number orientation on the element to make certain I had it right side up. If I have to do this again it will be easy and take very little time. My biggest problem was getting the oven door back on because it was heavy for me and I was too short to be able to see what I was doing as I repeatedly tried to get the oven door and hinges aligned. Eventually the door was back on and screwed down. Everything that had been unscrewed was put back in place and screwed down tightly. The oven and broiler are working perfectly.