ACF3335AW-PACF3335AW2 Amana Range - Instructions

It was really easy because I read information on your site. I only had to unscrew 3 screws, remove the old spark ignition electrode, replace the new one and then screw the 3 screws back. It was great

The biggest problem was gettng the correct ignitor, seems there are two. The first ignitor was the wrong one (I do not remember seeing any reference to which on the order page), but once I had the correct one my biggest issue was to get the stove out far enough for me to get behind it to take the cover off. Six scews and a disconnect and a repeat to replace and done. I must mention that the service rep was extremely helpful and easy to deal with and there was no language issue. The replacement part came in two days. I would definitely order more parts from this company

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

very easy

i got the right part from u fast del.and had it fixed in 15 min. was very happy withu service thank u will buy more parts from u when i need them it was the same part i took out

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Removed plate at bottom of oven and unscrewed ignitor. Tipped oven forward and removed tiny back panel to reach plastic socket that disconnected ignitor from oven. Pulled ignitor out and awaited replacement part and did reverse steps. Oven ignitor worked right away.

For stovetop I ordered part and removed sheet metal screws from oven rear top panel after appliance was pulled from wall, gas and electrical disconnected. I pulled old spark ignitor module out and transferred colored wires to new module and snapped that into place. Replaced oven and presto, stovetop ignitors worked immediately.

Insert one end of the railing into the slot in the back of the stove. Align the front end of the railing with the hole at the front of the stove. Align the roller with the hole. Secure the front end of the railing, roller ,and hole with the shoulder bolt using a 10mm wrench. Tighten just enough but don't over tighten.

took the bottom of oven out.Took the ignitor off the bar. Took the center panel off of the back of stove. Unplugged the ignitor, plugged new one in. Attached ignitor to bar.Put bottom panel back in stove. all done.

Took off the burner by unscrewing the two screws and lifting out the burner/igniter together being careful to not let the electrical connection come apart. If it does then you have to take all 4 burners off so you can lift the whole oven/burner top. Disconnect the old igniter by (more than likely) drilling out the old screw, if you are lucky maybe the old screw holding the igiter will actually unscrew. If not, you can put a new screw in to hold the new igniter, put it all back together and youre done.

The burner has two screws holding it in place. I remover those and lifted the burner up. I then disconnected the wire attached to the igniter that was on the old burner and attached it to the igniter that was pre-installed on the new burner. I then placed the burner back into position and reinstalled the two screws. The reason that I bought the burner assembly is that I was unable to unscrew the screw underneath that held the igniter in place on the old burner.

The repair was easy. Used an ohm meter to find problem, if you follow wiring schematic , it is fairly easy to trace. Found open circuit across igniter. Repair was easy, only needed to remove part of back plate and bottom shel in oven and replace igniter, the repair took about 30minutes.

Replaced the igniter as I've done with other products with similar problems. My amp tester wasn't working so I didn't test the igniter. The igniter wasn't the problem so I contacted a repair man who came up with the conclusion that the problem was actually the gas control valve. The valve wasn't letting enough gas to ignite the burner.