ARG7200L (P1143331N L) Amana Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in plance. I then pulled the element out about 3 in ches and disconnected the two wires

Identifing what part to replace was the most challenging task. So, what I did to trouble shoot what was broken and identify the specific compent was the following. I was not sure that the igniter was broken becuase it illuminated rather bright but the oven would not turn on. The broiler on the other hand worked fine so I removed the igniter from the broiler and placed it in place (the igneiter is a different size) of the oven igniter and guess what the burner cut on...So I ordered the oven igniter and everything worked fine.

I found the ignitor was wired in series with the gas valve and wasn't letting enough voltage through to the gas valve to open it. I just unscrewed the ignitor and pulled it out.

1.) Trun Off Power
2.) Remove the Storage Drawer and the two (2) screws holding on the (Ignitor Plug) access cover-plate located in the back of the storage drawer access. (see page 15 if same model)
3.) Dissconnect the Ignitor Plug
4.) From the oven opening remove the three screws holding the Ignitor Holder.
5.) Remove the Ignitor and Holder from the oven by gently guiding the wires through the access hole
6.) Pull the Ignitor from the holder
7.) All Ignitors are extremelt fragile; install the new Ignitor into the Holder and make certain it is installed tight, mine was not. (Slight bending with my thumbs on the 1/4" flanges might hold it tighter if it is lose.)
8.)Reverse the process.
Note: One person here said they removed "ALL" the screws, maybe it was a different model, I only had to remove a total of "5" screws, two at the access cover plate and three at the Ignitor holder.
First time took me 20 minutes, if I needed to do it today, maybe 10.
Please also note that I didn't troubleshoot the Ignitor, as I didn't have a wrap-around amp meter, but the typical problem here would be the Ignitor, not the Gas Valve. Good Luck, pt

Removed the bottom drawer then removed the door - 2 screws. It would be hard to reach in oven with door still attached and it is simple to remove and put back on. Removed the racks and pan on bottom, which just lifts out. Removed 3 screws that hold bracket that contains igniter. The igniter plugs in and to access the plug you must remove a cover underneath the range. Once the drawer is out you have to crawl back in there to access the plug. I sent in my 14 year old for that. Make sure range is unplugged. Insert igniter in bracket and feed wire back down to plug in and reattach. Vacuumed oven out with a shop vac, etc. and it is a 30 min project.

Turn off power to unit. Remove one nut inside bottom of oven to expose glow bar and igniter. Take 3 screws off of ignitor cover and remove it.

Pull out pan storage drawer to expose igniter plug connector. Unplug connector. Remove igniter.

Plug in new igniter and reverse the above instructions to reassemble.

This was a much easier repair than I thought it would be. I read online that, given the problems my oven was having, it was almost certainly the igniter that was the problem. It was - with the new igniter it works perfectly!

My husband took it apart then showed me how to put it back together. So I placed it in the metal holder and attatched all the screws.

Removed racks and pans from oven, removed 1 screw that housed the v shaped burner cover. Then I noticed the Igniter housing was held to back of oven with 3 small screws, removed 3 screws, and noticed the igniter just slid into the housing, but the connection would not come through back of unit. pulled out the lower tray to expose the underside of the oven and noticed 2 screws holding a metal cover, removed those and noticed connection to igniter, undid the connection, slid out the igniter and then just reversed the process to put back. It took me about 20 minutes, and that was only because I was being overly careful with the ceramic igniter, as the one in there just crumbled. Very easy job for anyone with even moderate skills. Ordered my part with assitance from a lady at parts express on Monday at noon, had the part delivered Tuesday at 3:00, had the oven back up and running fine by 3:30. Couldn't be happier, as this happened once before and the repairman charged me $185, this cost $48 and 15 minutes.
Unbelievable service and detailed help. I have this site bookmarked for anything moving forward.
Thanks

First, I took out the racks from the oven. Next, I took out the black small square cover off the bottom of the stove, which gave me access to the oven ignitor. Then, I removed the screws to be able to take out the ignitor. Finally, I took the bottom drawer out to access the ignitor wire. I pulled the plastic connectors to disconnect the wire. I took the ignitor out and replaced with the new one. I put everything back in reverse order. The oven warmed up about 2 minutes after I turned it on.

you need to remove the shield then the tray under the burner and burner tube.then you can get to the plug. Just remember when putint it back you need to put the burner tube in first then the tray then you can screw the element back in place. replace all the screws. works great.

I assumed it was the igniter. The trick is to remove the bottom storage drawer for access to where the igniter is connected. You then need to run the wire up into the oven and mount next to the gas.

I identified the igniter problem in the lower part of the oven by turning the upper broiler on and finding that it worked. I then knew it was not a gas supply problem. Replacing the igniter required removing the two oven racks, removing the drip pan, removing two screws that connect the igniter to its mount and disconnecting the wires in the back of the oven. The install was the reverse of removal. One tip, on my oven I was able to lift the oven door off of its hinges which allowed much easier access to the igniter.

First, i removed all of the oven parts that needed to come out in order for me to remove the ignitor. Second, removed the manifold and the old oven ignitor. Then, i checked for 120 volts going to the ignitor. Replaced the ignitor with the new one and reassembled all of my oven parts. 15 mins top, but of course it may take a little longer for those of you who are not elecrically and mechanically inclined. Very east to repair.

I first diagnosed the problem with an ammeter, after I was sure of the problem I ordered the part and it came in 1 day early. When the part arrived I removed 12 screws to access the old part, unplugged it, plugged in the new one. The easiest way to save $150.00 I've managed.

basicly just replaced the element by unplugging the connector and removing the three screw that hold the element. easy process.