610002 Amana Range - Instructions

Replaced drip pan. Notch did not want to match the burner notch. Was a close fit bit with a little pressure made it work.

I used a phillips screwdriver to remove the control switch. I drew a diagram on a piece paper where the wire contacts connected I wrote the different # and wire colors down . I compared the 2 switches they were the same. So I connected the wires . I put the 2 screws on. The stem was higher than the other switchers. So I had to cut the stem shorter. It had groves so it was easy to use a hacksaw to cut a little then use a lock pliers to hold the stem and another to break it off then it fit perfect I put the knob on presto new switch. Just like new.

I followed the instructions provided.

No problem Took off old ones and replaced with new.

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

This wasn't much of a repair -- rather a replacement of a simple abused part. At the same time, PartSelect allowed me to order what I needed after two failed attempts to buy replacements that would fit the range. I'll remember PartSelect if we need parts for other older appliances in the rental units.

Someone did the repair for me.

Repair was very east. The suppliers package had all of the necessary parts ceramic wire nuts wire Ect. Excellent.
Will buy from Part Select Appliance again.

I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine

Removed burner and then burner pan.Then replaced pan and reinstalled burner.

Time was do to the fact that I replaced two elements! I turned off the power to the braker box, unplugged the stove and removed the screw holding the element plug in, removed the part, and cut the wires where they were clean looking (not damaged by smoke or the arch) I then stripped the wire and took the new part and twisted the parts together with the caps and then put the heat shrink on and used the blow dryer on them, attached the part to the bracket and screwed it to the hood of the stove plugged the burner in, plugged in the oven and turned on the power tested it worked, did the same for the next burner and yes mind you I am a woman it was very easy to do.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...

One screw taken out, 2 wires switched, new part & screw put in. Burner like new!

Replace the connector and bracket, spliced the wires, put heat to the schrink wrap and I was done.