ARGS7650E-P1130766NE Amana Range - Instructions

After removing the oven shelves, the burner cover came right up. The ignitor was in plain sight, and after removing the screws I pulled it straight out so I could get to the wire nuts. After swapping out the old igniter and sliding the cover over the new ignitor, the new piece slipped back into place in the oven. The screws were put back in, and the burner cover and shelves put back, and the oven works wonderfully again.

I first diagnosed the problem with an ammeter, after I was sure of the problem I ordered the part and it came in 1 day early. When the part arrived I removed 12 screws to access the old part, unplugged it, plugged in the new one. The easiest way to save $150.00 I've managed.

basicly just replaced the element by unplugging the connector and removing the three screw that hold the element. easy process.

First, i removed all of the oven parts that needed to come out in order for me to remove the ignitor. Second, removed the manifold and the old oven ignitor. Then, i checked for 120 volts going to the ignitor. Replaced the ignitor with the new one and reassembled all of my oven parts. 15 mins top, but of course it may take a little longer for those of you who are not elecrically and mechanically inclined. Very east to repair.

This is the second igniter I've had to install in the last 2 years. First time the repair was done by the company I bought the range from. $35. part/ 140. labor. I watched the repairman do the job. It is literally one nut, three screws, and an electrical plug and socket. Here's the interesting part of the story: the appliance store would NOT sell the part to me. They insisted on installing it themselves. NOT FOR $140. Thanks for your help, great and easy to use website. I spent the $140. I saved of golf. Thanks again!

Identifing what part to replace was the most challenging task. So, what I did to trouble shoot what was broken and identify the specific compent was the following. I was not sure that the igniter was broken becuase it illuminated rather bright but the oven would not turn on. The broiler on the other hand worked fine so I removed the igniter from the broiler and placed it in place (the igneiter is a different size) of the oven igniter and guess what the burner cut on...So I ordered the oven igniter and everything worked fine.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in plance. I then pulled the element out about 3 in ches and disconnected the two wires

The repair actually started online trying to figure out the problem. The parts list and picture provided were a big help. I actually got lucky when I ordered the part. It was a little difficult to get to but once I got the old one out, it was easy and done quick. Saving at least $100 on a repair man was awesome. I had to find the part in the stove first. Then had to find the wiring harness to disconnect. After taking off the back panel and the oven burner plate, the wire harness was exposed. I disconnected, taped on the new wires, remounted the new igniter and put it all back together. Pretty quick and pretty easy.

It took me a while to figure out how to access the igniter (I ended up removing the drawer and had to slide underneath the oven.) Once I removed the two sheet metal panels, I unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. Installing the igniter inside the oven was easy--three sheet metal screws that hold the protective cover.

this was the second one replaced in 5years,they don't make things like they used to

1. Disconnect oven electric supply.
2. Remove oven door (2 screws).
3. Remove inside-oven bottom plate (slide forward, lift).
4. Remove inside-oven burner cover (1 nut).
5. Disconnect igniter enclosure (3 screws).
6. Remove under-oven drawer (slides out).
7. Remove panel at back of oven in under-oven compartment to access igniter electrical connection (2 screws).
8. Disconnect old igniter.
9. Extract old igniter from igniter enclosure. (Don't use much force; just slightly expand the metal flanges of the enclosure.)
10. Dispose of old (bad) igniter.
11. Insert new igniter into igniter enclosure.
12. Place igniter enclosure in oven compartment and slide electrical connector through to back/lower compartment.
13. Connect new igniter in under-oven compartment.
14. Replace panel at back of oven in under-oven compartment (2 screws).
15. Replace igniter enclosure (3 screws).
16. Replace inside-oven burner cover (1 nut).
17. Replace inside-oven lower plate.
18. Replace oven door (1 screws).
19. Reconnect electric supply.

All I would like to say is that I am very satisfied with the service I received from PartSelect.

I definitely would order from them again. By doing the work myself, I believe I saved $80 in labor costs.

Thank you

Replaced the igniter. With the new igniter, the gas came on when the oven was turned on and lit with no problem.

The oven door had a stripped thread so I took a knife and held up on washer and unscrewed it. I unplugged the oven. Then slide door off. Then removed pan in oven, then used socket wrench to take off burner sheild (reflector). Then You take out bottom drawer, in the back of opening there is a cover over the connections 2 screws. I unpluged the igniter. Now back in oven the igniter has a cage with 3 screws.. the screw was rusted and frozen. Needed to use WD40 on the screw and let set 10 mins. Now I could remove that screw and other 2 screws. With the cage off I was able to go to bottom where the drawer was and reach in and pull igniter completely out. Becareful not to break the anode it is fragle. ( the black piece) Then reverse and put the new one in. I actually swaped some of the rusty screws that gave me trouble with other screws in the oven that were the same, in case I have to do this again some time in the future. These previous comments from people were greatfully helpful!!!! Thank you!!!

Removed covers. Unplugged and unscrewed oven igniter mounting screws. Pulled out failed igniter and slid in new igniter. Installed igniter in reverse order.

TIP: Many igniters will test correctly with meters. This is due to they will fail under a load (when in use) in the oven. But when testing with the meter they will test ok because they are not being put under the stress of use in the oven.