ARR3400W-P1143602NW Amana Range - Instructions

replaced drip pans with correct type

Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

My bottom oven didn't work, and I had called a service to come out and fix it. It was a $60 charge just to come out. My friend owns an apartment complex, and she told me it was two screws and a pull to remove the element and replace. I took the element out, ordered it for $38, had it the next day and repaired my oven in a matter of minutes. It was so easy and inexepensive. I feel like I can do anything!

The hardest part was the two screws (they were baked on I guess). We turned off the breaker, put paper towels in the oven carefully sprayed wd40 on the screw. Waited about 5 minutes unscrewed the two screws, gently pulled out the plate. When you pull the two wires out there are two contacts. Look at the direction their on. Slide them off put in the new unit to the contacts, gently slide back in and put the two screws back. It was really that easy and I had no idea what I was doing. No need to pull oven out can all be done for the front side.

My elements just plug in so all I had to do was pull them out and replace the drip bowls. They fit perfectly!

Removed the door and old hinges and reinstalled the new hinges and added some screws to better support the door ( it was bending a little at the middle and the door would not shut all the way. Now it works fine.

TURNED OFF POWER TO STOVE Removed 5 Knobs, 2 screws that held bad switch.
Removed 4 screws and lifted panel up and forward to expose switches. Adjusted spring tension on knob stem to hold knob ( stem in new switch slightly smaller) removed wire from defective switch one at a time and fastened to new switch in sequence. Reassembled and turned power on. Defective switch had stuck contacts making it full hot.

left side hinge was broken. I removed 2 screws to release the old hinge and replaced it with the new hinge.
Part select.com made it easy to pick out the part from the diagram supplied on the web site. After it was ordered it arrived 2 days later.

I removed the two screws and pryed out the old hinge. I then put in the new hinge. The new one fit well. I went to screw it in with the supplied screws. The screws not only did not fit the hole tapped in the hinge (too big, different tread) but both screws were different from each other. They were different sizes and different types all together. I tried re-using the screws from the originol hinge but they also did not fit. I then got my own self tapping machine screws and finished the job. This job should not have been that hard. If they had supplied the correct screws, It would have taken all of five minutes.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

To replace a bowl lift burner slightly (1") then pull gently until it comes out. Remove bowl, replace with new bowl. Insert burner by pushing gently yet firmly, place down into clip.

To replace indicator light, remove panel from back of stove.
Locate light indicator switch, push indicator lens through front of stove, hold in place (may require a second person) slide switch unto the nub of plastic on the indicator switch. Repeat for each broken indicator lens.

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

Received part after one working day and was installed
in five minutes.. Would recommend as a do it your self
project with the support of PartSelect.com

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.