ACS3350AC0 Amana Range - Instructions

It took me a while to figure out how to access the igniter (I ended up removing the drawer and had to slide underneath the oven.) Once I removed the two sheet metal panels, I unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. Installing the igniter inside the oven was easy--three sheet metal screws that hold the protective cover.

My husband did the repair. He removed the wires and screws from the element and replaced with new part.

After removing the oven shelves, the burner cover came right up. The ignitor was in plain sight, and after removing the screws I pulled it straight out so I could get to the wire nuts. After swapping out the old igniter and sliding the cover over the new ignitor, the new piece slipped back into place in the oven. The screws were put back in, and the burner cover and shelves put back, and the oven works wonderfully again.

I identified the igniter problem in the lower part of the oven by turning the upper broiler on and finding that it worked. I then knew it was not a gas supply problem. Replacing the igniter required removing the two oven racks, removing the drip pan, removing two screws that connect the igniter to its mount and disconnecting the wires in the back of the oven. The install was the reverse of removal. One tip, on my oven I was able to lift the oven door off of its hinges which allowed much easier access to the igniter.

First, i removed all of the oven parts that needed to come out in order for me to remove the ignitor. Second, removed the manifold and the old oven ignitor. Then, i checked for 120 volts going to the ignitor. Replaced the ignitor with the new one and reassembled all of my oven parts. 15 mins top, but of course it may take a little longer for those of you who are not elecrically and mechanically inclined. Very east to repair.

Took cover off inside of oven to expose igniter - 1 nut! - igniter would not glow --3 screws to remove - pulled out storage drawer - un screwed oven shields - (2) - 6 screws - unplugged plastic igniter plug - an replaced! - simple - thank you and made wife buy me dinner for the probably $60 service call! --- thanks to those that posted before me to make this possible!

I went online to learn what F-3 meant and it said temp sensor malfunction. I ordered the part - it looked the same so I repaced the old one and then the plugs were different. I cut the plug off the old sensor and cobbled together a connection. I powered up the stove and the burners were ok, but the oven appeared dead. about an hour later the alarm went off and it displayed F-1. I figured I needed to order another part, but hit Oven cancel and the display lighted up. I set the clock, heated to 400 and made a tray of cornbread. It seems to work ok, but I need to make a better arrangement. perhaps cut the new part connector off and splice the old connector. I don't like having electrical tape so close to the oven - it will probably melt with much usage. It is working - for now!

Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received.
Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.

Turn off power to unit. Remove one nut inside bottom of oven to expose glow bar and igniter. Take 3 screws off of ignitor cover and remove it.

Pull out pan storage drawer to expose igniter plug connector. Unplug connector. Remove igniter.

Plug in new igniter and reverse the above instructions to reassemble.

This was a much easier repair than I thought it would be. I read online that, given the problems my oven was having, it was almost certainly the igniter that was the problem. It was - with the new igniter it works perfectly!

Shut off electric power. Removed bottom drawer.
Removed metal covers over burner in oven.
Removed 3 screws holding igniter in place. Disconnected wire plug under oven and pulled thru hole where igniter had been. Removed metal shield from defective igniter. Used care to place it on new igniter. Reinstalled everything.
My wife was observing and made me scrub under stove since I had the drawer removed.
I found the other repair stories very helpful in diaignosing my problem and ordering the right part. I ordered on Monday and received Wednesday afternoon normal delivery. Very good service.

basicly just replaced the element by unplugging the connector and removing the three screw that hold the element. easy process.

Replaced the igniter. With the new igniter, the gas came on when the oven was turned on and lit with no problem.

The oven door had a stripped thread so I took a knife and held up on washer and unscrewed it. I unplugged the oven. Then slide door off. Then removed pan in oven, then used socket wrench to take off burner sheild (reflector). Then You take out bottom drawer, in the back of opening there is a cover over the connections 2 screws. I unpluged the igniter. Now back in oven the igniter has a cage with 3 screws.. the screw was rusted and frozen. Needed to use WD40 on the screw and let set 10 mins. Now I could remove that screw and other 2 screws. With the cage off I was able to go to bottom where the drawer was and reach in and pull igniter completely out. Becareful not to break the anode it is fragle. ( the black piece) Then reverse and put the new one in. I actually swaped some of the rusty screws that gave me trouble with other screws in the oven that were the same, in case I have to do this again some time in the future. These previous comments from people were greatfully helpful!!!! Thank you!!!

I first diagnosed the problem with an ammeter, after I was sure of the problem I ordered the part and it came in 1 day early. When the part arrived I removed 12 screws to access the old part, unplugged it, plugged in the new one. The easiest way to save $150.00 I've managed.

This is the second igniter I've had to install in the last 2 years. First time the repair was done by the company I bought the range from. $35. part/ 140. labor. I watched the repairman do the job. It is literally one nut, three screws, and an electrical plug and socket. Here's the interesting part of the story: the appliance store would NOT sell the part to me. They insisted on installing it themselves. NOT FOR $140. Thanks for your help, great and easy to use website. I spent the $140. I saved of golf. Thanks again!