AER5511AAW Amana Range - Instructions

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

This was easier than putting in a new light switch. The old receptacle would not make the necessary adjustments to the heat element to maintain the desired temperature. Even when I turned the temperature knob to "minimum", the heat element would bun at the maximum temperature. I pulled the element from the Receptacle, raised the stove top to expose the receptacle and wiring. My stove was too heavy to pull from the wall, so I had to go to the breaker box to flip off the breaker. I returned to the stove and snipped the non working receptacle (with a wire cutter) and attached the new receptacle with the ceramic wire nuts, that came with the assembly. I turned the electric-breaker back on, and tested the heat element. The element will now make the on/off adjustments on each temperature setting, to maintain the correct heat.
I ordered two receptacles because I wanted a spare. I do a lot of baking during special-day dinners, for my family members... and due to the age of my stove, I bought the bake element as a "back up" if the present Bake-element burns out.

First I opened the door to the oven. Then I opened the box that the part came in. (knife) I then slid the oven rack out of the box and unwrapped the plastic, being careful not to bend or scratch the new rack. Now, this is the tricky part... I had to move the existing rack down one space to make room for the new one. Then carefully slid the new rack in, tipping it slightly and sliding it in. LOL

removed back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

I looked at the other repair stories on this site & realized it should be simple to do. I first switched off the power at the circuit breaker (range has its own switch). Then used a philips head screw driver to remove the 2 screws that hold the element in place at the back of the oven. Gently pulled the element out. Was able to disconnect the wire on the right side. But the other one would not budge. Thought I would have to get a repair guy out after all. Decided to try again again next day. Put on a pair of leather gloves to get a better grip on the wire (thought pliers might bend the connectors). Was able to wiggle it back & forth & it came loose. Then it was easy to hook up the new one, gently pushing the element connectors into the oven wires & put it back into the oven & replaced the 2 screws holding the element in place. Switched the circuit breaker back on. Turned on the oven and it works like new and no repair person visit!! Thanks for the info at this site.

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

Real easy to do. I just unscrewed from back pulled out until wire can out of back then seperated from wire. Took out element put new one in. Real easy didn't even need my husband

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

FIgured it was either a bad heating element or a realy expensive repair so I purchased a replacement element to rule out the simple and inexpensive possibility. Pulled oven out from wall and disconnected power supply. Removed retaining bracket from top of oven, two screws that held in heating element, disconnected from fittings, replaced with new element, and reattached screws and retaining bracket. Plugged in power supply, tested lower oven (it worked just fine) pushed oven back against the wall. Threw away the old element and packaging. Job done.

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its corresponding hole.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site