ART6121E (P1143851N E) Amana Range - Instructions

I had already removed the old hinges by removing the screws/bolts and removing the broken hinges from the back side through the drawer below the oven that I had already removed. Took the new hinges and screwed the two metal screws into the top hole on the new hinges after placing hinge in vise, one screw on each then removed them and placed them to the side. Determined the right tap from my tap set, and then tapped the bottom two holes on the new hinges, one on each. Placed the bolts that came with the new hinges into the holes I had just tapped, screw them in, then I removed them and placed to the side. Took hinges and bolts / screws to the oven, inserted hinges in through the drawer that I had removed up to each side where hinges would come back out to the front of the oven. Placed screws / bolts one at a time through oven door frame into the hinge on the back side, and then threaded them into the hinges and tightened. Replaced oven door onto new hinges and checked for correct operation. Door works like new.

My husband did the repair. It was so easy that I could have done it. He had to remove 3 screws and then hook up the element. Nothing to it!!

Insert one end of the railing into the slot in the back of the stove. Align the front end of the railing with the hole at the front of the stove. Align the roller with the hole. Secure the front end of the railing, roller ,and hole with the shoulder bolt using a 10mm wrench. Tighten just enough but don't over tighten.

The key to this repair was making sure I typed in the correct model number and serial number so that I got the correct part. I had read here that a couple of folks had received the wrong temperature sensor (i.e. it had the male plug instead of the female plug). Unfortunately I had to call the local appliance repair guy as the plug could not be accessed from the interior of the oven. It was easy to remove the 2 screws that held it in place but I could not pull enough of the wire out to access the plug. The local repair guy pulled to oven out and removed the back in order to unpluy the bad sensor and plug in the new one. It was actually kind of nice that he came as he used a digital thermometer to cycle the oven through a couple of warm ups to see if it was actually working correctly. It worked fine and my wife was happy again. The $75 I spent on the repairman was darn well worth it. "Happy wife = happy life!"

I read instructions and hints online. Then, I pulled the range out from between the cabinets and unplugged it (carefully). I used a small Philips head screwdriver to remove the 10 metal screws holding the large metal sheet on the back of the oven. Then I removed the 4 screws holding on the metal sheet on the upper level of the back of the range since it had to be removed to move back the big sheet metal away from the back. The large metal sheet has the power cord threaded through it on the bottom and I left that in place. I then removed the oven door by lifting it up off the hinges after I removed the screw on each side that held the door on the hinges. The door is quite heavy for a girl. I unscrewed the plate at the back of the broiler element, unhooked it from the hangers, and carefully pulled the connectors apart from the oven wiring and the dead broiler element. (Being completely unfamiliar with this kind of connector it took me some time to figure out they slid apart.) Following advice online I had used electrical tape to tape down the wires so they wouldn't slip backwards out of the oven. The new broiler element connectors slid smoothly and easily into the oven wires. I removed the electrical tape I had used as temporary holders, hung the element on the previous wire slings and removed the new wire slings for a backup. I screwed back the plate on the new element into the back of the oven wall. I used the part number orientation on the element to make certain I had it right side up. If I have to do this again it will be easy and take very little time. My biggest problem was getting the oven door back on because it was heavy for me and I was too short to be able to see what I was doing as I repeatedly tried to get the oven door and hinges aligned. Eventually the door was back on and screwed down. Everything that had been unscrewed was put back in place and screwed down tightly. The oven and broiler are working perfectly.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

I had no trouble replacing the Broiler heating element, total time 30 minutes. Just had to pull the range out to unplug it and remove the back sheild of the range, then remove the two push on electrical connections. Then removed one screw holding the element to the inside of the oven, replaced with the new element, attached the connections, but the back sheild back on and it was done.

Discriptions provided by others in this section made it easy and there is little additional insight I can add. The part was delivered the next day. I don't reply to these requests for comments, as providing what I paid for is the expectation. But, this outfit did a good job.

Ordered hinge, went to Sears bought some tools to finish manufacturing the hinge, tapped out the screw hole, installed the hinge.

Description of the element indicated that it would work for the oven burner. However, it obviously was meant for the broiler element. I had to remove the thin metal piece with the attachment holes in it (the holes didn't match the holes in the back of the oven). To install I had to drill two holes in the remaining attachment flange to match the holes on the back of the oven. Then I made three metal supports out of sheet metal to hold the element up approximately 1 1/2" off of the bottom of the oven. Just thankful to find one that I could make work. Oven works fine now. LF

1. waited unsuccessfully for heat (one hour) 2. realized the bottom element wasn't working (one minute) 3. found part on-line from pictures (five minutes) 4. ordered part (one minute) 5. received part (36 hours) 6. installed part (five minutes) 7. "THAT'S how you fix the oven" look to husband (1-2 years)

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Unscrewed 2 screws holding the bracket on the back of the stove and disconnected the wires from the two clips. Removed back element, connected new elements & replaced screws to back inside wall of oven. Works like brand new!!

Removed the old sensor which is held into the upper right of the back of the oven by removing the two screws and pulling the sensor out. Then disconnected the sensor from its connector. Replace the old with the new by simply clicking it into the connector. Then pushed the wire back into the oven wall and screwed the two screws back in. The whole job took about one minute to do after evaluating the process. While it was not necessary to remove the door, I did (which was very easy) and ended up cleaning the glass inside and out. All in all, a complete success. Oven working as new.

The repair was simple, two screws and plug in and it was done.