ARG7302CC (P1143391NCC) Amana Range - Instructions

looked at and saw that ignitor was cracked,saw simple repair ahead. just needed the right part . Without part , select simple ,and easy selection, i might not have ever found the right part. as i said before finding the right part is 90 percent of the job and they made that an easy task .

of course if you want me to describe in detail, took out the pan saw the bad ignitor, removed 2 serews, disconnected 2 wire, the reassembled in the opposite direction. 30 minutes tops. I am sure this saved me at least 150 bucks for some "so called reparman" to do the same job, Most people do not realise that they have more education than most of these "repairmen". The only advantage these "repair people" have is acess to schematics and part numbers. Part select is a good start on putting this information in the hands of us average "idiots" as I am sure the repair folks call us when we pay 200 bucks for a 30 dollar job.

WEB research indicated that even though ignitor would glow, that it was likely faulty.
Turned off power at circuit breaker
Remove shelves and bottom plate from inside oven.
Unscrew deflector plate
Remove drawer under stove
Remove ignitor and unplug from connector
replace ignitor, plug in, reassemble stove.
Needed flashlight to see under stove.

Simple install - 6 -7 screws one nut. Once replaced oven worked good as new. Part shipped from PartSelect actually better than one installed by repairman 4 years ago - fit like an original part.

Thanks PartSelect.com

Disconect power source; Remove oven racks, remove storage drawer under oven; remove floor of oven, remove flame deflector, remove three screws holding igniter cage and unplug faulty igniter. Reverse all steps for reassembly.

First I had to take the drawer completely out of the stove to reach the igniter. I then removed the screws that held the igniter in place and removed it. I had to slightly modify the replacement part by squeezing it together to make it fit into the same space. I put the replacement igniter in place and screwed it down; put the drawer back in the stove and turned on the over to see if it would light. Bingo, job done!

I have an older model gas oven which required that all screws had to be removed. With a screw gun the job would not haven taken long. Once the bottom pan was removed the oven ignitor took some finese to remove. This was only due to the short wires. Once pulled sufficiently to be able to disconnect the ignitior (although I was afraid I was going to pull the wires and separate them from the stove), it was very simple to unplug and plug in the new one (again, making sure to hold the plug so the wires would not retract back behind the wall which would have required the stove to be pulled out from the wall and the back disassembled).

The good news, it was a success and the oven works like new. Roughly $38.00 later, I am back cooking. The extra effort for the screws was offset by being able to complete this by myself and saving the cost of a repair man. Would do it again.

shut off gas at tank, pulled stove out from counter area to gain acess to back, removed oven door removed removed screws holding igniter unit in place, i then removed the stove rear panel to get at the wiring for ignitor,remoded old part returned to front and installed new part, checked voltage then re-connected new wires, turded gas back on and tested oven, oven came on less than a minute, put rear panel on stove put door back on and put stove back into counter area, stove works like new.

Bought a new one. . Three years later =)

First turned off power to oven, Took burner out by lifting up and pulling out, then pulled out wires attached to the oven and igniter, removed two wire nuts and disconnected the wires then removed burner assembly from oven. With screwdriver and nut driver removed old igniter from housing and put new one in place, tightened up screws carried back to oven reattached wires with wirenuts and feed wires back into oven, then put burner back carefully silding igniter into hole in back of oven. Turned power back on to oven and worked nice. Took all of 15 mins to complete.

I just replaced the racks with beautiful, new, shiny racks. My wife was very pleased

Removed the oven racks for room to work.
Removed a protective cover (slide forward, lift up).
Remove winged cover plate.
See igniter assembly.
Remove 2 or 3 holding screws (I don't want to go in and count them - it's obvious - they are clearly in view - get a good screw-driver seating - they come out easily).
The igniter assembly is then loose and ready to com out.
Remove the stove drawer to get at the access plate at the rear - comes off easily(the wires to the igniter were then clearly identifiable).
Release the wire plug - I marked one side with a sharpy - polarity of fit, not voltage.
Gently feed the igniter assembly out the bottom using the wires.
Remove the igniter from the shroud (may have to pul it apart a little - it's tight - it does come out easily after prying the shroud a little - mark a side with a sharpy - for mechanical orientation.
The part number should be on the igniter.
I did not bother matching the part number.
Just matched the stove brand and model.
The parts diagram provided by PartSelect was invaluable.
I put an ac meter up the holes of the plug (stove side, of course) turned on the stove to see the meter measure 115vac - assurance that the igniter was bad and not anything else.
Just reverse the removal process.
Just takes a little time and patience.
Very very doable.
Good luck.

First, I removed the oven door (two screws and pulled it off the hinges) and placed it out of the way. Then I removed the baking racks and bottom cover over the heating element this exposed the heating element, easily removed (two screws). I unplugged the old element, plugged the new element in, and put all the stuff back and the put the door back on. Next was the fun part. . . Had to get the wife to turn on the oven (very complicated touch pad - not made for a man to understand), and shazamm the oven came on! Now I can have some of those great homemade biscuits again!

Replaced glow bar/ igniter.

The first one came damaged and customer service credited the first one and got another on the way the same day. They were awesome to deal with. I removed the oven racks, the burner cover, the storage drawr, and the door. That took about 5 minutes. I removed 3 screws that held the ignitor in place. I removed the 2 wire nuts from the wires in the drawr space. I slid the ingitor cover off the old ignitor and onto the new one. Slid the new ignitor into place and fed the wires below and put on the 2 wire nuts, then installed the 3 screws and tested the operation. I put the oven back together and put the tools away. Total time about 20 minutes.

Removed oven racks and bottom cover plate. Removed stainless steel diffuser to access igniter. Removed bottom storage drawer and unplugged connector for igniter. Removed defective igniter by by taking out 3 screws holding stainless steel mounting bracket in place. New replacement part had totally different bracket which prevented it from mounting in the proper orientation so I carefully removed defective igniter from original bracket and installed new igniter. New part was tacked in place by some sort of high temp adhesive that had to be carefully removed to allow it to be installed in old mounting bracket. Installed new assembly in the oven and when I tried plugging in the power connector I discovered the pins on the new igniter were the wrong sex; both sides had male pins! Removed igniter again and cut off the two pin connector and installed a brand new 2 pin molex type connector. I installed a mating connector on the original length of wire and connector that I cut from the defective igniter along with the heavy insulating material so I now had a properly mating set of connectors. Went through the mounting process again; successful mating this time. Oven lights in 50 seconds. If it dies again I'll have a connector of each
sex ready before repair.