AES1350BAW Amana Range - Instructions

After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

1) Unplugged the electrical cord and removed the oven door (only when easy); and, jockeyed the oven into better working area.
2) Removed about 9 screws holding rear sheetmetal backing plate to disconnect each of 2 electrical wires from the old element.
3) Removed 2 screws holding element to back of oven and 2 screws from small bracket supporting end of element to top of oven.
4) Replacement element was severely damaged. It was at the very bottom of a box 20 by 15 by 15.5 inches high with the large continuous bubble wrap stacked only on top. Each of the wire ends were sharply bent; one almost 180 deg. pointing in the opposite direction, and the other about 120 deg. The element itself was about 4-5 inches out of square. Using two large needlenose pliers I carefully bent each wire back to its proper place. Next I carefully exerted pressure on the element to gradually form it back to as near its correct shape as possible. (Only the inside of the shipping box showed the signs of possible damage.)
5) Installation- The element, from inside the oven, was placed back through the two holes in the rear of the oven and secured with 2 screws.
6) The bracket supporting the front of the element was slid onto the element and attached to the top of the oven.
7) Attached the 2 electrical oven wires to the 2 element wires, making sure there was good clearance to prevent any short circuit, plugged the oven cord in to 230volts, and checked it out with power to the broiler to give myself some confidence that the damaged wires would not quickly break. It seemed to work and I unplugged the oven.
8) Reinstalled the backing plate with the original screws, plugged oven back in, and moved the oven back to its place and replaced its door. It is working and my wife is cooking.

I unplugged the stove. Took out the burner and removed receptacle by pulling it out of the bracket and clipping the wires. One thing you want to make sure is that when you clip the wires from the receptacle you're replacing you leave enough wire so that you can connect them to the wires on the new receptacle when it is in place on the stove. I had just enough but would have liked more. The bracket I received didn't match the one on the stove so I used the one on the stove since the receptacle itself was the same as the one I was replacing.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

First I disconnect the breaker. I removed the defected receptacle and cut the wires. I connected the new receptacle with parts with the new part. Turned the breaker back on and everthing worked fine.

Control panel was responsive however oven would not heat up. I Replaced sensor with one of the adapters and oven is now working again.

Cut broken wire and existed wire off and put splice on both new and old wires to connect them.
It's easy job.

Removed frame to cabinet lag screws
Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven)
Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven
Uncoupled wire harness
Installed new sensor in reverse order

Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.

After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

very easy

Husband got on partselect.com and read reviews, we ordered a long oven sensor kit. When it came in the mail, I took it out and look at it, decided I could probably switch the part.... and so I did. Easy Breezy ... and it worked well