ARG7102W (P1143344N W) Amana Range - Instructions

I removed the oven door by removing two screws, one above each hinge. With the door screws removed, position the door to the slightly open position and lift strength up to remove. Remove wire racks and the cover from the bottom of the oven. Remove the heat deflector which is held on with a single nut. Remove the screws that hold the cavity that houses the igniter and the burner. The igniter is held in place by a protective bracket that has to be reused. I slid the old igniter out of the protective bracket and then removed the cavity by allowing the burner and igniter to exit through an opening in the rear of the cavity. The drawer (broiler pan storage) had to be removed to remove the two screws to an access panel that allowed access to the igniter connector. After disconnecting the old igniter, I fished the new igniter connector through the back of the oven to connect it. I use masking tape to hold the access panel in place while reinserting and tightening the two screws. Replace the cavity that houses the igniter and burner. Slide the protective cover over the igniter. Realign and secure the burn and igniter assembly by reinserting and tightening the necessary screws. Reinserting and tighten the screws around the igniter/burner cavity. Replace the heat deflector by tightening the nut. Replace the cover that covers the bottom of the oven and the wire racks. Reinsert the drawer. Slide the door over the hinges and reinsert and tighten the two screws.

My repairman told me it was probably the ignitor (even though the old one sitll glowed), but after weeks of waiting for his back-ordered part, I decided to try it myself - found it on PartSelect and had it 3 days later. Turned off the power to the oven. Slid out the 2 racks, and the cover below the racks. Unscrewed 1 nut and removed the V shaped metal plate that distributes the heat. Under that removed 3 screws that hold the ignitor clip in place and got the igniter out of the clip. I couldn't get to the plug on the other end of the ignitor until I took out the oven drawer and removed 2 screws holding a metal cover in place below the oven. Reversed the whole process being careful with the end of the new ignitor (I read it was fragile). The oven now heats up in 5 minutes and maintains temperature again!

Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!

Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC

I bought the part and replaced it.

I ordered new racks to see if they weere out of alignment. The new racks fell from its tracks after the broiler was heated. It seems the oven cabinet is expanding with the heat and the rack width does not compensate for that. The new racks did not solve the problem so I do not know what can be done next. Any shelf support would have to be heat resistent. Replacing the oven cabinet is not a good option and no gauantee it wouldn't continue with this stove.

I ordered the part and it was at my door in 2 days. I ordered the part on Wednesday thinking I would install it on the weekend after next. The part showed up on Friday. That was amazing considering I didn't sellect expeidited delivery. I didn't have a manual and have never tried this before so grade my attempt on a curve please. I started by unscrewing the screws closest to the hinge but quickly migrated to the entire face of the range. Pulled the range out and started unscrewing the screws on the side, and then the back. Figuring nothing was coming off and I still couldn't get to the hinge I stopped and regrouped. That's when my wife asked if she could help. I guess I looked distressed. By this time I had removed the drawer and had the range on it's back in the middle of the kitchen with little bowls of screws everywhere. My wife picked up the new hinge and looked it over. Then she started playing with the old hinge which was loose, but I couldn't get it out. She realized that you can remove the old hinge and install the new hinge without taking the whole thing apart. Where was she 30 minutes ago? The hinges came out and the new ones went it in about 10 minutes. It took me another 20 minutes to put back all of the screws I had taken off unnecessarily. Sometimes use your brains instead of a screwdriver. I have the best wife ever!

Removed burner with attached igniter assembly by raising forward legs from slots and pulling unit from rear support. Note: this is contrary to instruction #1 on installation instructions. Then followed the remaining instuctions 2 - 7 as written. Everything worked as planned.

1. Removed racks
2. Removed bottom cover
3. Removed screws holding ignitor
4. Removed storage draw
5. Removed cover over wires
6. Unplugged ignitor & placed with new
7. Put back together

First, I removed the oven door (two screws and pulled it off the hinges) and placed it out of the way. Then I removed the baking racks and bottom cover over the heating element this exposed the heating element, easily removed (two screws). I unplugged the old element, plugged the new element in, and put all the stuff back and the put the door back on. Next was the fun part. . . Had to get the wife to turn on the oven (very complicated touch pad - not made for a man to understand), and shazamm the oven came on! Now I can have some of those great homemade biscuits again!

Removed oven racks and bottom cover plate. Removed stainless steel diffuser to access igniter. Removed bottom storage drawer and unplugged connector for igniter. Removed defective igniter by by taking out 3 screws holding stainless steel mounting bracket in place. New replacement part had totally different bracket which prevented it from mounting in the proper orientation so I carefully removed defective igniter from original bracket and installed new igniter. New part was tacked in place by some sort of high temp adhesive that had to be carefully removed to allow it to be installed in old mounting bracket. Installed new assembly in the oven and when I tried plugging in the power connector I discovered the pins on the new igniter were the wrong sex; both sides had male pins! Removed igniter again and cut off the two pin connector and installed a brand new 2 pin molex type connector. I installed a mating connector on the original length of wire and connector that I cut from the defective igniter along with the heavy insulating material so I now had a properly mating set of connectors. Went through the mounting process again; successful mating this time. Oven lights in 50 seconds. If it dies again I'll have a connector of each
sex ready before repair.

I pulled the ckt breaker, removed the oven drawer and disconnected the igniter. I opened the oven door and unscrewed the igniter holding bracket and removed the bracket and igniter. I broke the old igniter element when removing it from the bracket. When installing the new igniter in the holding bracket I broke the ceramic element. REALLY BE CAREFUL. Ordered a new igniter, very carefully installed it in the bracket, then rversed the removal process. It's not hard, you just have to be careful

Removed the oven racks for room to work.
Removed a protective cover (slide forward, lift up).
Remove winged cover plate.
See igniter assembly.
Remove 2 or 3 holding screws (I don't want to go in and count them - it's obvious - they are clearly in view - get a good screw-driver seating - they come out easily).
The igniter assembly is then loose and ready to com out.
Remove the stove drawer to get at the access plate at the rear - comes off easily(the wires to the igniter were then clearly identifiable).
Release the wire plug - I marked one side with a sharpy - polarity of fit, not voltage.
Gently feed the igniter assembly out the bottom using the wires.
Remove the igniter from the shroud (may have to pul it apart a little - it's tight - it does come out easily after prying the shroud a little - mark a side with a sharpy - for mechanical orientation.
The part number should be on the igniter.
I did not bother matching the part number.
Just matched the stove brand and model.
The parts diagram provided by PartSelect was invaluable.
I put an ac meter up the holes of the plug (stove side, of course) turned on the stove to see the meter measure 115vac - assurance that the igniter was bad and not anything else.
Just reverse the removal process.
Just takes a little time and patience.
Very very doable.
Good luck.

found igniter not working, pulled up on door and it came off, lifted up bottom of oven and pulled out, removed wing nut on deflector to access igniter, removed igniter retaining bolts, unplugged connector, be careful not to let connector slip back in stove, and reverse process to install new igniter,, all took about twenty minutes, easy repair,

Removed the three screws holding the igniter, pulled the old one out and plugged in the new one. Very simple.