AER5735QAF Amana Range - Instructions

Turn of power to the range. The element lies beneath a metal cover. The cover is held down by two screws in each of the back cornors. The burner element is held by a screw in the the back and by two screws near the front. Replacing the element was a snap. With the screws removed, pull on the element until the connecting wires are exposed. Pull the wires from the element and attatch to new element. Replace screws, cover etc. Turn on power and note the time it takes to reach a preset temp. You may detect a slight oder form a coating on the new element. .

removed the two screws in the rear of the oven to access the element. once exposed I removed the four screws holding the element in place. Went to the ouitside back of the stove and removed one screw holding the shield to access the terminals for the element. Installation was in reverse order.

First of all, let me say how "Not Handy" I am when it comes to these things. I decided to give this part a try after my oven decided to fail on Thanksgiving Day, so I ordered the part. It arrived on time as promised and packaged very well. The on-line parts breakout and testimony from the other buyers were so helpful. I had our oven back up and running in less than 10 minutes.

One thing I would also recommend is that you burn the element once installed for at least 15 minutes to get the newness smell off of it and then it won't permeate your food items.

Thanks, Parts Select! You saved me over $900.00; the price it was going to cost me to buy a new oven. :)

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Pull oven away from wall and unplug. with the oven door open, remove 2 rear screws holding down the element cover and pull element cover out of the oven. remove 2 screws holding element down to the bottom of the stove, and one screw holding the back of the element to the rear. now go behind the oven and remove the access plate to the element power connection (one screw). Disconnect the 2 element power wires. remove element. to install, reverse these instructions

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:

1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

A friend helped me to fix it. First I removed the door from the oven itself. Next, we unscrewed the four screws from the glass holder at the bottom of the door and removed it. Next, we straightened out the glass holder, as it was slightly bent up from the front glass shattering. Next, we slid the glass into the door. Finally, we reinstalled the door to the oven. Voila! It was like brand new again.