ARG7800CC (P1143388NCC) Amana Range - Instructions

I had done this before, but a while back, so it took a little longer to disassemble and find the igniter. Once there, easy to troubleshoot with a meter. Reassembly was only a few minutes and part of that was finding a new nut, since I lost one. I had to remove the storage drawer, then remove a metal cover to get at the connections. I tested the power to the igniter and found it to be OK. I tested continuity and had some but very low. Pulled the diffuser and cover off burner to locate igniter. Ordered part,put it on and reassembled everything. Working fine.

WEB research indicated that even though ignitor would glow, that it was likely faulty.
Turned off power at circuit breaker
Remove shelves and bottom plate from inside oven.
Unscrew deflector plate
Remove drawer under stove
Remove ignitor and unplug from connector
replace ignitor, plug in, reassemble stove.
Needed flashlight to see under stove.

Removed screws on edges of door. Romove front panel. Remove several screws around glass. Replace inner glass and replace screws. A little tricky reinstalling trim around door front.

Disconect power source; Remove oven racks, remove storage drawer under oven; remove floor of oven, remove flame deflector, remove three screws holding igniter cage and unplug faulty igniter. Reverse all steps for reassembly.

Removed the oven racks for room to work.
Removed a protective cover (slide forward, lift up).
Remove winged cover plate.
See igniter assembly.
Remove 2 or 3 holding screws (I don't want to go in and count them - it's obvious - they are clearly in view - get a good screw-driver seating - they come out easily).
The igniter assembly is then loose and ready to com out.
Remove the stove drawer to get at the access plate at the rear - comes off easily(the wires to the igniter were then clearly identifiable).
Release the wire plug - I marked one side with a sharpy - polarity of fit, not voltage.
Gently feed the igniter assembly out the bottom using the wires.
Remove the igniter from the shroud (may have to pul it apart a little - it's tight - it does come out easily after prying the shroud a little - mark a side with a sharpy - for mechanical orientation.
The part number should be on the igniter.
I did not bother matching the part number.
Just matched the stove brand and model.
The parts diagram provided by PartSelect was invaluable.
I put an ac meter up the holes of the plug (stove side, of course) turned on the stove to see the meter measure 115vac - assurance that the igniter was bad and not anything else.
Just reverse the removal process.
Just takes a little time and patience.
Very very doable.
Good luck.

The first one came damaged and customer service credited the first one and got another on the way the same day. They were awesome to deal with. I removed the oven racks, the burner cover, the storage drawr, and the door. That took about 5 minutes. I removed 3 screws that held the ignitor in place. I removed the 2 wire nuts from the wires in the drawr space. I slid the ingitor cover off the old ignitor and onto the new one. Slid the new ignitor into place and fed the wires below and put on the 2 wire nuts, then installed the 3 screws and tested the operation. I put the oven back together and put the tools away. Total time about 20 minutes.

We actually had to get the repairman back that had repaired our microwave. Our range has the attached microwave above the range. My stovetop light worked prior to the visit. When he left, I prepared supper without the light, which did not go on. Ultimately, we had to replace the fluorscent tube, which thankfully, you had. No appliance store in a 35 mile radius did. We finally got the glass protector off, and the new tube did not go on. Back to the repairman, to tell him the new bulb did not work and that probably something happened when he visited before. He came back, found that indeed a wire had been broken when he was working on the microwave. I had indicated to him I did not expect to pay another repair bill after I had alrealy spent 117. before plus the cost of the new bulb, 22. something including shipping. He obliged and id not charge me anythink to repair the broken wire.
Now I have the old bulb for back up!!!
Thank you for having my replacement tube!!

Removed oven racks and bottom cover plate. Removed stainless steel diffuser to access igniter. Removed bottom storage drawer and unplugged connector for igniter. Removed defective igniter by by taking out 3 screws holding stainless steel mounting bracket in place. New replacement part had totally different bracket which prevented it from mounting in the proper orientation so I carefully removed defective igniter from original bracket and installed new igniter. New part was tacked in place by some sort of high temp adhesive that had to be carefully removed to allow it to be installed in old mounting bracket. Installed new assembly in the oven and when I tried plugging in the power connector I discovered the pins on the new igniter were the wrong sex; both sides had male pins! Removed igniter again and cut off the two pin connector and installed a brand new 2 pin molex type connector. I installed a mating connector on the original length of wire and connector that I cut from the defective igniter along with the heavy insulating material so I now had a properly mating set of connectors. Went through the mounting process again; successful mating this time. Oven lights in 50 seconds. If it dies again I'll have a connector of each
sex ready before repair.

found igniter not working, pulled up on door and it came off, lifted up bottom of oven and pulled out, removed wing nut on deflector to access igniter, removed igniter retaining bolts, unplugged connector, be careful not to let connector slip back in stove, and reverse process to install new igniter,, all took about twenty minutes, easy repair,

I removed the ignitor.
Ordered the matching part.
4 days later the part arrived and I installed the part.

Replaced glow bar/ igniter.

First, I removed the oven door (two screws and pulled it off the hinges) and placed it out of the way. Then I removed the baking racks and bottom cover over the heating element this exposed the heating element, easily removed (two screws). I unplugged the old element, plugged the new element in, and put all the stuff back and the put the door back on. Next was the fun part. . . Had to get the wife to turn on the oven (very complicated touch pad - not made for a man to understand), and shazamm the oven came on! Now I can have some of those great homemade biscuits again!

I pulled the ckt breaker, removed the oven drawer and disconnected the igniter. I opened the oven door and unscrewed the igniter holding bracket and removed the bracket and igniter. I broke the old igniter element when removing it from the bracket. When installing the new igniter in the holding bracket I broke the ceramic element. REALLY BE CAREFUL. Ordered a new igniter, very carefully installed it in the bracket, then rversed the removal process. It's not hard, you just have to be careful

We removed the oven protective shield, took out the broken glass (very carefully) and replaced it with the part shipped. Then, we replaced the protective shield and it was done.

shut off gas at tank, pulled stove out from counter area to gain acess to back, removed oven door removed removed screws holding igniter unit in place, i then removed the stove rear panel to get at the wiring for ignitor,remoded old part returned to front and installed new part, checked voltage then re-connected new wires, turded gas back on and tested oven, oven came on less than a minute, put rear panel on stove put door back on and put stove back into counter area, stove works like new.