ARGS7650E (P1130755N E) Amana Range - Instructions

Replacing the igniter itself was a simple matter a few screws holding its housing and then plugging the new one into the connector. Difficulty came trying to figure out how to access the igniter. Disassembling the floor of the oven was a dead end involving many screws. Pulling the unit out from the wall was a big job and another failure. The problem was solved with the removal of the drawer. Underneath, in the rear was a sheet metal plate held by 2 screws. Behind that hung the igniter connection. Voila! Job done.

Remove the cover over the burner, two screws at the rear, this exposes the burner tube cover, one nut at the center. Three screws will remove the holder for the igniter. I had to remove a sheet metal cover underneath the oven( pull the drawer out) to gain access to the plug for the igniter. A good tip on this is the same valve controls the broiler and the oven, if one works and the other doesn't, it's the igniter. If neither works the gas vale may be the problem.

My husband took the oven door off then the bottom piece below the shelf took the old ignigter out put the new on in and now I have an oven again.

I slid out the oven burner disconected the old igniter and replaced it with the new one & slid back in place and connected the two wires and I was back in business. The job was relativly an easy one.

I went ahead with the repair after reading how easy it was. I located the wires which were spliced, held together with wire nuts and wrapped in black insulation tape which did not feel right. Not realizing that these were ceramic heat resistant wire nuts and not wanting to cut the connector off the new ignitor I tried in vain to find a way to disconnect the original from it's source. In vain I searched for a way to reach where it plugged in. Looking for diagrams on line I came across one mention of: when you can't reach where to unplug the connector splice the wires using the heat resistant wire nuts. Encouraged I did that without the black insulation tape and then tried to slide the ignitor into the protective housing. The filament broke! I was devastated. Out $50.00 plus ego deflated I called PartSelect and bless their soul they sent me a new one under warranty. I didn't even have to ask for it. Their turn around time was the same as before and within two days not counting the weekend the oven lit like a Christmas candle. Thanks to all before me who shared their experience. Curious though why no one mentioned the splicing method.

PriceSelect was the best. Special thanks to them.

Un plug elect. Cord. Remove door by pulling upward removed back stove panel, un did 2 wire nuts leading to igniter. Un screw igniter inside oven at top next to burner pad. Interchanged old ignitor with new plug stove back in. Thats it.

Unscrewed all the phillips screws holding the door together. Re-assembly indicates that you want to note exactly how the sides overlap the front and back steel panels, possibly take a cellphone picture before starting. The front and back panel will bend down the bottom attachment metal tabs, misaligning the sides, etc if you replace the glass with the door still on the range. Prob. best to have a second standing by or remove entire door first.

Easily replaced the stovetop burner bowls by removing the old ones and replacing with the new ones.

Parts Select provided easy online ordering and was nearly one-half the price of other online suppliers.The quality was excellent!

Put the new pad in and it was done. Very easy.

Although this was not a repair I wanted to let you know your service was outstanding and the price quite reasonable. I am very happy to finally have a much needed second rack in my oven that was not there when I purchased my home. Thank You

For the third time in less than a year I had to replace the broiler igniter. The range is 27 years old and has given us excellent service. When the igniter failed it's replacement lasted 3 months. The next replacement lasted about 6 months. This last replacement has been in service about 1 week. We shall see. The last one had an open wire within the ceramic mould. There was continuity from one wire, through the black portion, but not to the second wire. It seems like it was a fault in manufacturing.

Daughter and family came to visit Gramps for the weekend; Saturday morning, arose and opened a couple of cans of grand buscuits. Set aside to let rise then turned oven on to preheat. Came back later and oven did not work. Stove top worked, broiler worked, but no oven. What to do, didn't want to waste dough; perhaps salvage for dumplings, no; make poorboy doughnuts, no; Aha, lets use the outside gas grill, never done it, worth the try, remember old camping days except using gas. Worked like a charm, crisis over. Now back to oven. Since everything worked except the oven burner problem could be in the igniter, or oven control. Removed covers to burner assembly, pulled igniter, checked for continuity across the two leads. No go. Wait, need to check oven control, placed voltmeter across incomming leads, turned oven controls on and had voltage. Conclusion, igniter bad. Also noticed a small rust hole in the burner tube next to igniter, not good. Went on-line to PartsSelect, entered make and model number. No model but gave choice close to model. Viewed pictures, found one that came close. Placed order. Parts came in a very short time. Matched new parts to old. perfect. Removed burner tube and installed new one, one screw, simple. Wire nut the incomming leads to igniter and install, three screws, simple. Turned oven on, igniter glows bright, gas comes on, good blue flame, no need to adjust air inlet vents on burner tube. Turned off oven, replaced covers, then turned on oven, baked cornbread and enjoyed. Thanks, back in business. Dave

Removed screws on edges of door. Romove front panel. Remove several screws around glass. Replace inner glass and replace screws. A little tricky reinstalling trim around door front.

Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!

Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC