RSS358UL,W (P1130974NL) Amana Range - Instructions

First I turned off the gas supply to the oven and disconnected it. I then pull the oven out away from the wall. I then unplugged the power cord. I removed the oven door by lifting it off of it spring hinges. I then removed a lower plate that covers the burner element by pressing in a manner that it popped off. I then located the ignitor and removed 3 screws. All were easily removed. Carefully, I pulled the igniter out and removed the wires from the wires that supplied the current to the ignitor. Installation followed by working the steps above in reverse order.

Took off oven door, took out racks and bottom plate, removed burner assembly disconnected wires, removed old ignitor put new one in holder, connected wires, put burner assembly back, checked if it worked and replaced racks ect..No tools needed.

I researched the needed part (igniter)and purchased it on line. It arrived promoptly. I called a repair person who arrived and installed the new part. All is well.

Removed old igniter held by one bolt & nut, diconected two leads to igniter. Gas mainifold remained in place during repair. Replaced with new igniter, using old mounting bracket and wire ties. Total repair time 30min, oven repair service wanted to charge $80 just for diagnosis. Total cost of repair doing it myself was $50.

unscrewed the bracket holding the igniter in place then we pulled the drawer on the bottom out and disconnected the Igniter - then we took the unit out of the bracket replaced it and then put the bracket back into place screwed it in and reconnected the igniter and now it burns hotter then it has since we moved into the house two years ago.
I was worried that it would be a hard long job but was pleasantly surprised when it only took a few minutes.

r & r hinge. very poor pivot pin which leads to frequent replacement of hinge assembly, cheaply made, weak spot is hinge pin pivot rivet.

I took oven door apart and replaced old gasket with new one.

Turned off gas supply and power. Removed four wires by hand and with a needle-nose pliers after making simple schematic. Disconnected gas supply to valve and valve outlets to broiler and oven. Also loosened other end of gas supply (on regulator) to swing it out of the way. Tools used....open end wrenches. Removed two nuts on left side of valve holding valve to bracket. Tools used...1/4" socket set. Since the nuts holding the right hand bracket were difficuly to reach, I removed the bracket, allowing the valve to be removed. Tools used....1/4" socket set. I then removed the right hand bracked and mounted it on the new valve. I then installed the new valve in the reverse order. I then opened the gas supply and tested the inlet connection(s) for leakage with soapy water. Perfect seal. I turned on the power, set the clock, and tested the oven and broiler. Worked perfectly. The only thing that prevented this from being a really easy job was the location of the valve....in cramped location.

I am writing this post to hopefully save someone else the frustration and confusion I experienced when I ordered a replacement ignition module for an Amana gas cooktop AKGD3060WW. Over time, three of the four burner would not light. I ordered a replacement spark module from PartSelect and to my surprise it arrived the next day.

The installation instructions were very confusing. I read the instructions posted by prior customers about this part and none of them helped or seemed to apply to the same cooktop. With the use of the exploded view on PartSelect website I was able to figure out where the module was located.

I turned off the gas and unplugged the unit.

I had to go under the cabinet and securely prop up the cooktop cavity box from below as I had to take off the whole cover, which was actually holding, or mounting, the unit to the counter top.

I removed the cooking units then, the control knobs and the glass control plate, and the vent filter and vent cover. After removing about 20 screws from the main frame/cover I located the spark module at the rear of the unit, sandwiched between two pieces of sheet metal and obstructed by numerous wires. I recorded the wire connections then unplugged the module. It was difficult to remove module due to the numerous unrelated wires that were routed through that area.

I connected the wires to the new module (NOTE: The replacement module has no terminal identification.), plugged the cooktop into the power and tested it and noted that all four burners now received a strong spark.

The original unit is smaller than the replacement unit and the supplied bracket does not fit this cooktop. I had to force the module into position. I removed the two small tabs and applied double sided tape applied to the bottom then secured it against the original mounting bracket. I then adjusted the wires back into the recess with the module and reassembled the cooktop.

The cooktop now lights all four burners instantly, for the first time in several years.

Replaced the igniter. Took out the 20 screws holding the bottom plate of the oven. Removed the igniter and gas tube mounting screws and bracket. Took off the wire nuts that attached igniter to stove wiring. Carefully installed new ignitor, using reverse of the steps above. Igniter tip is very fragile, so beware as you handle. All went very well, and oven now works like a charm

Removed the oven doors for access; removed the burner onto which the ignitor is attached, disconnected the electrical wires (power off). Reversed the procedure to put it back together. We are now cooking with gas again. Thanks. Fletcher

I had already removed the old hinges by removing the screws/bolts and removing the broken hinges from the back side through the drawer below the oven that I had already removed. Took the new hinges and screwed the two metal screws into the top hole on the new hinges after placing hinge in vise, one screw on each then removed them and placed them to the side. Determined the right tap from my tap set, and then tapped the bottom two holes on the new hinges, one on each. Placed the bolts that came with the new hinges into the holes I had just tapped, screw them in, then I removed them and placed to the side. Took hinges and bolts / screws to the oven, inserted hinges in through the drawer that I had removed up to each side where hinges would come back out to the front of the oven. Placed screws / bolts one at a time through oven door frame into the hinge on the back side, and then threaded them into the hinges and tightened. Replaced oven door onto new hinges and checked for correct operation. Door works like new.

Roommate did the repair..so I don't know. I did the research online, the igniter solved the problem. Saved us buying a new oven!

First, unplugged the cooktop from outlet and shut off gas. Then, removed burner assembly then located and removed existing spark module. Installed new spark module kit, reassembled burner assembly and then plugged unit into electricity and turned gas on. Was rewarded when testing burners with an instant ignition.

Using a meter, we determined each of the four igniters had continuity from end to end and also had continuity from the end of each igniter back to the spark module. At that point we decided the module was probably bad and, after reviewing some similar-sounding problems on this website, I ordered the module. Installation was simple and solved the problem. All four burners now ignite as they should. One caution - the installation instructions that came with the new module did not describe anything like my stove.