AGDS901E (P1131826N E) Amana Range - Instructions

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

After I received the new hinge in the mail, my 13 year old son volunteered, for a fee of five dollars, to put the new hinge on the oven door. Seeing "easy to install" on the outer wrapper of the new part, I thought I was being generous. However, my son soon let me know that the screws given with the new hinge did not fit into the predrilled holes of the oven. He tried and tried for over an hour to get those screws to fit. I decided to go to the home improvement store to buy bigger screws. I took the hinge with me and had the store employee assess the type of screws I would need. He then informed me that the screws were fine, but I needed the holes in the hinge to be drilled bigger. I bribed him by offering to buy him a drink if he'd do it for me as long as he was single. He laughed and drilled away. (Sometimes, single women, like me, get desperate!) He handed me the hinge with larger holes and I noticed the wedding ring. Oops...no drink for him!! But I did give him a great big thank you. Happily, I brought the fixed piece home and handed it to my son to continue with the repair. He tried again and this time announced the holes were drilled too big!! If there was a bridge nearby I seriously would have jumped! The next day I drove to my Dad's house...a true jack of all trades...and with his drill and two new screws, he said this should do it. For the third time, I handed the hinge to my son and VOILA!! It actually worked! Thanks Dad!! So much for "easy to install". Seriously, the incorrect screws were sent with this hinge! Anyway, I happily celebrated that night with a drink in my hand...minus the home improvement employee!

I found the ignitor was wired in series with the gas valve and wasn't letting enough voltage through to the gas valve to open it. I just unscrewed the ignitor and pulled it out.

After removing the oven shelves, the burner cover came right up. The ignitor was in plain sight, and after removing the screws I pulled it straight out so I could get to the wire nuts. After swapping out the old igniter and sliding the cover over the new ignitor, the new piece slipped back into place in the oven. The screws were put back in, and the burner cover and shelves put back, and the oven works wonderfully again.

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received.
Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.

TURN OFF BREAKER PROVIDING POWER TO OVEN

First I tested the oven thermostat after removing the two screws attaching it to the back of the oven and pulling the thermostat out far enough to unplug it. I tested the thermostat using a multi tester set for testing OHMS. The test meter read 1080 ohms indicating that the thermostat was OK. I reinstalled the thermostat after plugging the wires back in and carefully feeding them back into the rear of the oven then replacing the two screws previously removed.

I then removed four screws holding the oven in place (Located inside on both sides of the oven - easier to remove oven door first) I slid the oven out being careful not to damage the pigtail providing power to the oven. I had studied the schematic and found a fan control located on the right top of the oven under an access cover. Remove the screws holding this cover in place (about 10 or 12 screws)slide cover off and this exposes the fan control. It has one red and one blue wire attached to it. This fan control should not have continuity when at room temp. I checked continuity with the multi tester and the fan control was on at room temperature. This fan control should not have continuity unless the temperature is around 200 deg f. I replaced the fan control by removing two screws holding it in place and unplugging the two wires connected to it. (BE SURE POWER IS TURNED OFF!!!) Reconnect the two wires to the new fan control and reattach the two screws holding it in place. Replace the access cover, slide oven back into cabinet and reattach using the four screws. Replace oven door and re-energize power to the oven. It takes a few minutes for the oven to get hot enough to turn on the cooling fan. (The cooling fan IS NOT the same fan that you can see when the oven door is open-that is the convection fan the cooling fan is visible through the top vents over the oven door)

Slide stove out unplug remove cover on back bottom left 3 screws remove wires from old module and plug into new module could not remove old module I glued new to old replaced cover pluged back in slide stove back in and the burners lit

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

very easy

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

ordered new broiler pan

Took off oven door, took out racks and bottom plate, removed burner assembly disconnected wires, removed old ignitor put new one in holder, connected wires, put burner assembly back, checked if it worked and replaced racks ect..No tools needed.

I researched the needed part (igniter)and purchased it on line. It arrived promoptly. I called a repair person who arrived and installed the new part. All is well.

Removed old igniter held by one bolt & nut, diconected two leads to igniter. Gas mainifold remained in place during repair. Replaced with new igniter, using old mounting bracket and wire ties. Total repair time 30min, oven repair service wanted to charge $80 just for diagnosis. Total cost of repair doing it myself was $50.