ARG7300LL (P1143317NLL) Amana Range - Instructions

I removed the oven door by removing two screws, one above each hinge. With the door screws removed, position the door to the slightly open position and lift strength up to remove. Remove wire racks and the cover from the bottom of the oven. Remove the heat deflector which is held on with a single nut. Remove the screws that hold the cavity that houses the igniter and the burner. The igniter is held in place by a protective bracket that has to be reused. I slid the old igniter out of the protective bracket and then removed the cavity by allowing the burner and igniter to exit through an opening in the rear of the cavity. The drawer (broiler pan storage) had to be removed to remove the two screws to an access panel that allowed access to the igniter connector. After disconnecting the old igniter, I fished the new igniter connector through the back of the oven to connect it. I use masking tape to hold the access panel in place while reinserting and tightening the two screws. Replace the cavity that houses the igniter and burner. Slide the protective cover over the igniter. Realign and secure the burn and igniter assembly by reinserting and tightening the necessary screws. Reinserting and tighten the screws around the igniter/burner cavity. Replace the heat deflector by tightening the nut. Replace the cover that covers the bottom of the oven and the wire racks. Reinsert the drawer. Slide the door over the hinges and reinsert and tighten the two screws.

My repairman told me it was probably the ignitor (even though the old one sitll glowed), but after weeks of waiting for his back-ordered part, I decided to try it myself - found it on PartSelect and had it 3 days later. Turned off the power to the oven. Slid out the 2 racks, and the cover below the racks. Unscrewed 1 nut and removed the V shaped metal plate that distributes the heat. Under that removed 3 screws that hold the ignitor clip in place and got the igniter out of the clip. I couldn't get to the plug on the other end of the ignitor until I took out the oven drawer and removed 2 screws holding a metal cover in place below the oven. Reversed the whole process being careful with the end of the new ignitor (I read it was fragile). The oven now heats up in 5 minutes and maintains temperature again!

Disconect power source; Remove oven racks, remove storage drawer under oven; remove floor of oven, remove flame deflector, remove three screws holding igniter cage and unplug faulty igniter. Reverse all steps for reassembly.

First I had to take the drawer completely out of the stove to reach the igniter. I then removed the screws that held the igniter in place and removed it. I had to slightly modify the replacement part by squeezing it together to make it fit into the same space. I put the replacement igniter in place and screwed it down; put the drawer back in the stove and turned on the over to see if it would light. Bingo, job done!

Simple install - 6 -7 screws one nut. Once replaced oven worked good as new. Part shipped from PartSelect actually better than one installed by repairman 4 years ago - fit like an original part.

Thanks PartSelect.com

Remove the racks
remove one nut that holds the heat deflector
3 screws that hold the igniter
remove the drawer
remove 2 screws holding a heat shield in place.
unplug old igniter and reinstall

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294

I used your instructions

I had done this before, but a while back, so it took a little longer to disassemble and find the igniter. Once there, easy to troubleshoot with a meter. Reassembly was only a few minutes and part of that was finding a new nut, since I lost one. I had to remove the storage drawer, then remove a metal cover to get at the connections. I tested the power to the igniter and found it to be OK. I tested continuity and had some but very low. Pulled the diffuser and cover off burner to locate igniter. Ordered part,put it on and reassembled everything. Working fine.

Ceramic connectors were taken off the old igniter, pulled off old igniter and replaced in the same way the new igniter

Removed old ignightor and installed new one

Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!

Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC

Removed burner with attached igniter assembly by raising forward legs from slots and pulling unit from rear support. Note: this is contrary to instruction #1 on installation instructions. Then followed the remaining instuctions 2 - 7 as written. Everything worked as planned.

I bought the part and replaced it.