AER5715QAQ Amana Range - Instructions

I wasn't sure if it was the heating element or the temperature probe not allowing the oven to go above 200 degrees so I ordered both from Selectparts. After receiving my replacement parts (in record time thank you) the oven element had a hidden slit on the underside near the connection. During its removal the element disintegrated at that point.

Since Maytag is very user friendly to maintain, it was a matter of removing the retaining nuts securing the element to the back of the oven, and resecuring after replacing with the new element. I did have to take the back panel off the oven to reattach the wiring to the element. This was necessary because while I was removing and replacing the element, the insulation was pulled through the access holes. I also replaced the temperature probe because I had already ordered it. This was easier to replace however and I did not encounter the isulation problem as I had when removing/replacing the element. I recommended your company to my friends and would definately order parts from you should I need to repair another appliance in the future. Thank you again.

My wife heard a loud surge when preheating the oven one day. When I restored power, the oven wouldn't heat and half of the oven display would not light. Broiler OK. Range top OK. The oven coil was electrically open after having melted through itself during the surge. I ordered a oven coil from PartSelect, based on model #. Installation was simple and only involved several easy to remove screws and a couple electrical terminal lugs. I replaced the coil but the oven would not heat beyond 100°F. I ordered a new oven display from PartSelect. PartSelect described what display series is required for a particular serial number. The first 2 #'s of the serial # are the display series required for the oven. My serial's first 2 numbers were 1 and 7, but PartSelect offered only a 10 or 12 series. I ordered a 12 series display and the part was identical. When I removed the faulty display, there were clearly burnt regions of the circuit card. Removal and installation of the display involved a nutdriver, philips screwdriver and circuit card plugs.
I am not sure what caused the failure, the display or the element, but, in either case, I believe the cause is eliminated. The total repair costs were around $225 in parts. At the moment of failure, the oven was approximately 5 years old.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Had this range for 6 years. My daughter turned on the burner and it went "pop". She was very upset. I found the best price at PartSelect, and ordered the same day.

the first burner arrived broken in the box. We contacted PartSelect, and they immediately sent another and rushed shipping. It arrived in excellent condition.

To replace the unit: First, I turned off the circuit breaker for the range. Then I removed the two Philips screws that held the cooktop down. Next I removed the nut screws holding the burner to the cooktop.

Then I placed the new burner next to the old one, and one by one swapped the wires (this way I was sure I had the right wire on the right connector). One of the wire connectors broke when removing it from the old burner. PartSelect had provided 4 repacement connector pieces (oddly, all of which were too small for the burner element). So I located a replacement connector at a local hardware store. Stripped the end of the wire and used pliers to fasten the new connector.

After all connectors were secured to the new burner, I screwed the burner to the cooktop, then closed the cooktop and secured it with the two screws.

Turned on the circuit breaker, and it works like new! Saved over $100 by doing it myself!

See description listed as problem

I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a single or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.

After carefully removing the broken glass and cleaning the surfaces, I unscrewed the three screws holding the bottom metal panel using a Philips head screw driver. After replacing the existing double sided tape strips the replacement glass panel was evenly slid upwardly into place. The glass panel was held temporarily in place until the bottom metal bracket was slid upwardly into place and fastened into place by tightening the three Phillips head screws.

I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.

I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

unplugged oven from wall. Removed screws holding the inside element cover. Then removed the screws holding the element in place. disconnected wire from element. plug in new element and reinstall all screws and covers in reverse order. If wire to element pull throug back of oven, remove rear cover to expose all electrial connections. With new element screwed in place you can plug it in from the back. Reinstall rear cover. Plug in oven and test.

Purchased new bake element from PartsSelect. Very easy to install, unplug range, remove 6 screws, slide element out and unplug end, remove old element. Reverse procedure to install new element. My range was about 6 years old and in excellent condition, was considering buying a new range. Found PartsSelect on-line and ordered new element. Their website is very easy to use and find correct parts.
Saved lots of dollars, this PartsSelect website and service is great.

Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.

First I removed the screw behind the stove that hides the electrical wires. Pull off the two wires connecting the bake element with pliers. Unscrew the two screws holding down the floor pan which covers the baking element and pull out the floor pan. Here you will see the baking element, it is attached with a few screws. Remove the baking element and attach the new the same way.
We could not believe how easy this repair was to do. Not to mention all the money we saved on a repair man.
Thank you partselect.com, I'm glad I researched this on the net.

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !