ARG7302LL (P1143391NLL) Amana Range - Instructions

I removed the oven door by removing two screws, one above each hinge. With the door screws removed, position the door to the slightly open position and lift strength up to remove. Remove wire racks and the cover from the bottom of the oven. Remove the heat deflector which is held on with a single nut. Remove the screws that hold the cavity that houses the igniter and the burner. The igniter is held in place by a protective bracket that has to be reused. I slid the old igniter out of the protective bracket and then removed the cavity by allowing the burner and igniter to exit through an opening in the rear of the cavity. The drawer (broiler pan storage) had to be removed to remove the two screws to an access panel that allowed access to the igniter connector. After disconnecting the old igniter, I fished the new igniter connector through the back of the oven to connect it. I use masking tape to hold the access panel in place while reinserting and tightening the two screws. Replace the cavity that houses the igniter and burner. Slide the protective cover over the igniter. Realign and secure the burn and igniter assembly by reinserting and tightening the necessary screws. Reinserting and tighten the screws around the igniter/burner cavity. Replace the heat deflector by tightening the nut. Replace the cover that covers the bottom of the oven and the wire racks. Reinsert the drawer. Slide the door over the hinges and reinsert and tighten the two screws.

I have an older model gas oven which required that all screws had to be removed. With a screw gun the job would not haven taken long. Once the bottom pan was removed the oven ignitor took some finese to remove. This was only due to the short wires. Once pulled sufficiently to be able to disconnect the ignitior (although I was afraid I was going to pull the wires and separate them from the stove), it was very simple to unplug and plug in the new one (again, making sure to hold the plug so the wires would not retract back behind the wall which would have required the stove to be pulled out from the wall and the back disassembled).

The good news, it was a success and the oven works like new. Roughly $38.00 later, I am back cooking. The extra effort for the screws was offset by being able to complete this by myself and saving the cost of a repair man. Would do it again.

Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!

Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC

Removed old ignightor and installed new one

Ceramic connectors were taken off the old igniter, pulled off old igniter and replaced in the same way the new igniter

It was Tuesday before thanksgiving, panic as there was a big bird looking for a hot stove,
unplug stove from its electrical supply
turn off gas, not necessary but sometimes it's good to be safe.
inside oven remove bottom splash cover "pull towards you and lift out, then remove flame pan, one nut in the center, remove and lift out flame pan.
The oven ignitor was to the left of the burner, with 3 philips screws one attached to buner and the other two to the back of the stove, remove all three.
The ignitor is now loose,
remove bottom drawer and behind is a plate attched to the back of the stove with two screw, the screws are facing you as you look in where the drawer was, remove screws and plate to access the plug attatching the ignitor to its power supply .
go back to the oven and remove ignitor.
install new, feed plug through back, and put it all back together.
"ignitor very delicate, handle with care"
I am also not the biggest of guys and it can be awkward getting in the drawer space as you need both hands to plug it back in, so tilting the stove back, keeping safety in your thoughts at all times, would be a must for most people.

I ordered the part and it was at my door in 2 days. I ordered the part on Wednesday thinking I would install it on the weekend after next. The part showed up on Friday. That was amazing considering I didn't sellect expeidited delivery. I didn't have a manual and have never tried this before so grade my attempt on a curve please. I started by unscrewing the screws closest to the hinge but quickly migrated to the entire face of the range. Pulled the range out and started unscrewing the screws on the side, and then the back. Figuring nothing was coming off and I still couldn't get to the hinge I stopped and regrouped. That's when my wife asked if she could help. I guess I looked distressed. By this time I had removed the drawer and had the range on it's back in the middle of the kitchen with little bowls of screws everywhere. My wife picked up the new hinge and looked it over. Then she started playing with the old hinge which was loose, but I couldn't get it out. She realized that you can remove the old hinge and install the new hinge without taking the whole thing apart. Where was she 30 minutes ago? The hinges came out and the new ones went it in about 10 minutes. It took me another 20 minutes to put back all of the screws I had taken off unnecessarily. Sometimes use your brains instead of a screwdriver. I have the best wife ever!

I ordered new racks to see if they weere out of alignment. The new racks fell from its tracks after the broiler was heated. It seems the oven cabinet is expanding with the heat and the rack width does not compensate for that. The new racks did not solve the problem so I do not know what can be done next. Any shelf support would have to be heat resistent. Replacing the oven cabinet is not a good option and no gauantee it wouldn't continue with this stove.

I bought the part and replaced it.

Removed burner with attached igniter assembly by raising forward legs from slots and pulling unit from rear support. Note: this is contrary to instruction #1 on installation instructions. Then followed the remaining instuctions 2 - 7 as written. Everything worked as planned.

1. Removed racks
2. Removed bottom cover
3. Removed screws holding ignitor
4. Removed storage draw
5. Removed cover over wires
6. Unplugged ignitor & placed with new
7. Put back together

I removed the ignitor.
Ordered the matching part.
4 days later the part arrived and I installed the part.

Removed oven racks and bottom cover plate. Removed stainless steel diffuser to access igniter. Removed bottom storage drawer and unplugged connector for igniter. Removed defective igniter by by taking out 3 screws holding stainless steel mounting bracket in place. New replacement part had totally different bracket which prevented it from mounting in the proper orientation so I carefully removed defective igniter from original bracket and installed new igniter. New part was tacked in place by some sort of high temp adhesive that had to be carefully removed to allow it to be installed in old mounting bracket. Installed new assembly in the oven and when I tried plugging in the power connector I discovered the pins on the new igniter were the wrong sex; both sides had male pins! Removed igniter again and cut off the two pin connector and installed a brand new 2 pin molex type connector. I installed a mating connector on the original length of wire and connector that I cut from the defective igniter along with the heavy insulating material so I now had a properly mating set of connectors. Went through the mounting process again; successful mating this time. Oven lights in 50 seconds. If it dies again I'll have a connector of each
sex ready before repair.

I pulled the ckt breaker, removed the oven drawer and disconnected the igniter. I opened the oven door and unscrewed the igniter holding bracket and removed the bracket and igniter. I broke the old igniter element when removing it from the bracket. When installing the new igniter in the holding bracket I broke the ceramic element. REALLY BE CAREFUL. Ordered a new igniter, very carefully installed it in the bracket, then rversed the removal process. It's not hard, you just have to be careful