AER5511BAB Amana Range - Instructions

Turned off breaker, moved unit and unplugged the unit. Safety first! Removed the oven door, removed two Phillips screws, pulled out the heating element, removed two clips.

Installed new element in reverse order. Put back the door. Plugged in unit, moved back into place and turned on breaker. Tested the oven, and it worked great. Maybe 20 mins total, very easy and saved at least 200 bucks vs calling a repair guy.

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Simple Removed the broken element,put the new one in.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane.
It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

1) Unplugged the electrical cord and removed the oven door (only when easy); and, jockeyed the oven into better working area.
2) Removed about 9 screws holding rear sheetmetal backing plate to disconnect each of 2 electrical wires from the old element.
3) Removed 2 screws holding element to back of oven and 2 screws from small bracket supporting end of element to top of oven.
4) Replacement element was severely damaged. It was at the very bottom of a box 20 by 15 by 15.5 inches high with the large continuous bubble wrap stacked only on top. Each of the wire ends were sharply bent; one almost 180 deg. pointing in the opposite direction, and the other about 120 deg. The element itself was about 4-5 inches out of square. Using two large needlenose pliers I carefully bent each wire back to its proper place. Next I carefully exerted pressure on the element to gradually form it back to as near its correct shape as possible. (Only the inside of the shipping box showed the signs of possible damage.)
5) Installation- The element, from inside the oven, was placed back through the two holes in the rear of the oven and secured with 2 screws.
6) The bracket supporting the front of the element was slid onto the element and attached to the top of the oven.
7) Attached the 2 electrical oven wires to the 2 element wires, making sure there was good clearance to prevent any short circuit, plugged the oven cord in to 230volts, and checked it out with power to the broiler to give myself some confidence that the damaged wires would not quickly break. It seemed to work and I unplugged the oven.
8) Reinstalled the backing plate with the original screws, plugged oven back in, and moved the oven back to its place and replaced its door. It is working and my wife is cooking.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

easily pulled old seal out and push new seal in place simple and quick.

Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.

ordered new broiler pan

Removed two screws, removed broken heating element, plugged in new element and put two screws back.