ARG7600L (P1141298N L) Amana Range - Instructions

Identifing what part to replace was the most challenging task. So, what I did to trouble shoot what was broken and identify the specific compent was the following. I was not sure that the igniter was broken becuase it illuminated rather bright but the oven would not turn on. The broiler on the other hand worked fine so I removed the igniter from the broiler and placed it in place (the igneiter is a different size) of the oven igniter and guess what the burner cut on...So I ordered the oven igniter and everything worked fine.

Replaced the igniter. With the new igniter, the gas came on when the oven was turned on and lit with no problem.

this was the second one replaced in 5years,they don't make things like they used to

Removed covers. Unplugged and unscrewed oven igniter mounting screws. Pulled out failed igniter and slid in new igniter. Installed igniter in reverse order.

TIP: Many igniters will test correctly with meters. This is due to they will fail under a load (when in use) in the oven. But when testing with the meter they will test ok because they are not being put under the stress of use in the oven.

I listened to see if the stove was igniting. It was not so we went with the igniter. It arrived in three days. I thin watched a u-tube repair. It was very helpful but looked as if a few steps were unnecessary. After reading the responses decided what steps could be eliminated and carefully replaced the part. It worked the first time. Besides handling the ceramic part very carefully the hardest part was remembering what screws went where! Extremely glad I took this on as a first time stove repair.

The oven door had a stripped thread so I took a knife and held up on washer and unscrewed it. I unplugged the oven. Then slide door off. Then removed pan in oven, then used socket wrench to take off burner sheild (reflector). Then You take out bottom drawer, in the back of opening there is a cover over the connections 2 screws. I unpluged the igniter. Now back in oven the igniter has a cage with 3 screws.. the screw was rusted and frozen. Needed to use WD40 on the screw and let set 10 mins. Now I could remove that screw and other 2 screws. With the cage off I was able to go to bottom where the drawer was and reach in and pull igniter completely out. Becareful not to break the anode it is fragle. ( the black piece) Then reverse and put the new one in. I actually swaped some of the rusty screws that gave me trouble with other screws in the oven that were the same, in case I have to do this again some time in the future. These previous comments from people were greatfully helpful!!!! Thank you!!!

The repair actually started online trying to figure out the problem. The parts list and picture provided were a big help. I actually got lucky when I ordered the part. It was a little difficult to get to but once I got the old one out, it was easy and done quick. Saving at least $100 on a repair man was awesome. I had to find the part in the stove first. Then had to find the wiring harness to disconnect. After taking off the back panel and the oven burner plate, the wire harness was exposed. I disconnected, taped on the new wires, remounted the new igniter and put it all back together. Pretty quick and pretty easy.

Baking ignitor glows but gas valve not opening. Replacing the bake ignitor solves the problem.

Here is how to do:
1) open the oven door, unload the racks, bottom plate, and flame deflector. unscrew three screws (phillips screw driver needed) to loosen the bake ignitor (along with the metal rack).
2) take out the bottom drawer. you should see two screw all the way at the back. unscrew them to take off a metal cover. you should see the connector. unplug to take off the defective ignitor.
3) plug in the ignitor and put everything back in reverse order.

It took me a while to figure out how to access the connector at the bottom back of the stove. The next time it should take less than 15 minutes.

It took me a while to figure out how to access the igniter (I ended up removing the drawer and had to slide underneath the oven.) Once I removed the two sheet metal panels, I unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. Installing the igniter inside the oven was easy--three sheet metal screws that hold the protective cover.

All I would like to say is that I am very satisfied with the service I received from PartSelect.

I definitely would order from them again. By doing the work myself, I believe I saved $80 in labor costs.

Thank you

Removed the bottom drawer then removed the door - 2 screws. It would be hard to reach in oven with door still attached and it is simple to remove and put back on. Removed the racks and pan on bottom, which just lifts out. Removed 3 screws that hold bracket that contains igniter. The igniter plugs in and to access the plug you must remove a cover underneath the range. Once the drawer is out you have to crawl back in there to access the plug. I sent in my 14 year old for that. Make sure range is unplugged. Insert igniter in bracket and feed wire back down to plug in and reattach. Vacuumed oven out with a shop vac, etc. and it is a 30 min project.

My husband did the repair. He removed the wires and screws from the element and replaced with new part.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Once I received the replacement part I simply reversed the process and it worked perfectly.

Removed racks and pans from oven, removed 1 screw that housed the v shaped burner cover. Then I noticed the Igniter housing was held to back of oven with 3 small screws, removed 3 screws, and noticed the igniter just slid into the housing, but the connection would not come through back of unit. pulled out the lower tray to expose the underside of the oven and noticed 2 screws holding a metal cover, removed those and noticed connection to igniter, undid the connection, slid out the igniter and then just reversed the process to put back. It took me about 20 minutes, and that was only because I was being overly careful with the ceramic igniter, as the one in there just crumbled. Very easy job for anyone with even moderate skills. Ordered my part with assitance from a lady at parts express on Monday at noon, had the part delivered Tuesday at 3:00, had the oven back up and running fine by 3:30. Couldn't be happier, as this happened once before and the repairman charged me $185, this cost $48 and 15 minutes.
Unbelievable service and detailed help. I have this site bookmarked for anything moving forward.
Thanks

1.) Trun Off Power
2.) Remove the Storage Drawer and the two (2) screws holding on the (Ignitor Plug) access cover-plate located in the back of the storage drawer access. (see page 15 if same model)
3.) Dissconnect the Ignitor Plug
4.) From the oven opening remove the three screws holding the Ignitor Holder.
5.) Remove the Ignitor and Holder from the oven by gently guiding the wires through the access hole
6.) Pull the Ignitor from the holder
7.) All Ignitors are extremelt fragile; install the new Ignitor into the Holder and make certain it is installed tight, mine was not. (Slight bending with my thumbs on the 1/4" flanges might hold it tighter if it is lose.)
8.)Reverse the process.
Note: One person here said they removed "ALL" the screws, maybe it was a different model, I only had to remove a total of "5" screws, two at the access cover plate and three at the Ignitor holder.
First time took me 20 minutes, if I needed to do it today, maybe 10.
Please also note that I didn't troubleshoot the Ignitor, as I didn't have a wrap-around amp meter, but the typical problem here would be the Ignitor, not the Gas Valve. Good Luck, pt